ROGER'S WEB SITE | MONTREAL to MIAMI CRUISE 2019

Map 1
Map of First Part of the Cruise
On Sunday Sept 8th we are leaving for Montreal where we will spend 3 days exploring the city before embarking on Oceania's ship Insignia for a 17-day cruise around the Northeast coast of Canada, down the Eastern Seaboard of the USA, across to Bermuda and down to Miami. Ports of call are: Trois-Rivieres, Quebec City, Saguenay (Quebec), Corner Brook (Newfoundland), Sydney, Halifax (Nova Scotia), Bar Harbor (Maine), Boston (Massachusetts), New York (2 nights), Bermuda (2 nights).

Click on the maps to enlarge and see route.

I am hoping to post photos here as we go along but may have to wait until we return home.

Map 2
Map of Second Part of the Cruise

Sept 17th
Well, here we are, all at sea on our 42nd anniversary, cruising the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the way to Halifax, Nova Scotia. We should have been in Sydney (the one in Nova Scotia, not Australia) but it is too rough to get into port, apparently. This is the second port we have missed for the same reason. Instead of going into Saguenay we stayed a second night in Quebec City. However, I checked the shipping forecast and there were 6 mph winds and light seas in Saguenay on the day we were supposed to be there, so we were fed fake news by the Captain. More cruise elements later, but first to catch up with the photos of Montreal ...

Bonaparte
The Hotel Bonaparte where we stayed. A fine
hotel with one of the best restaurants in Montreal.
Belgard
Old Montreal Street
opposite the hotel.

Notre Dame
The Basilica of Notre Dame
Old
                Bank
Canada's First Bank, now converted into a cafe and workspace. These are the old Teller Desks
Brit
              Statue
In opposite corners of the square outside the Basilica stand two statues wearing false noses. One is of an English-speaking Canadian man (left) holding a pug and sneering disparagingly at the Basilica - an emblem of Catholicism and France. On the right is a French Canadian lady holding a poodle and looking disdainfully at the Bank of Montreal, an edifice representing commerce and Britain.

While these two snobs refuse to look at each other, their dogs are trying to leap from their arms and get together to play, never mind the language barrier.

A nice little allegory representing the tensions between the two dominant cultures in Quebec which is francophone but also has a huge British influence. The original Nelson's column stands just down the road. French Canadians, who were Royalists, loved Nelson because he defeated Napoleon three times - decisively at the battle of Trafalgar. So the Quebecoise erected a column topped by a statue of Nelson, years before the one in Trafalgar Square, London.

The guide on our 'free' walking tour asked who we thought was atop the column and I blurted out "Napoleon", inviting guffaws from Barb and other members of the tour. Duh!

French
              Statue
CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
(Except Statues)
Huge Murals adorn many buildings
Mural 1
Mural 2
Mural 3
More Murals
Mural 4

At first, we found Montreal to be dingy, dirty and decrepit but it's a city that grows on you. The people are great and the French culture is very seductive.
Leonard
                Cohen
Leonard Cohen Mural

Bar
                Suzanne
Stairs
Inside the 'Bar Suzanne'
While in Montreal we embarked on a sort of ghoulish groupie tour of the district where Leonard Cohen grew up and hung out. Two huge murals of the Great Poet and Lady's Man adorn the walls of tall buildings, his house is nearby, and the stairs in Bar Suzanne are decorated with a snatch of the lyric from the song of the same title.

We tried to get into his favorite Jewish Deli but the line was long and a local Jewish lady said "it is only for the tourists now and not very good" and advised us to go to another one which was definitely not touristy and not good either!

The citizens of Montreal are incredibly polite and helpful. Stop in the street for a moment and unfurl a map and one will rush up to you and ask if you need help.

By the time we left we were big fans not just of Leonard, but of the atmosphere and people of Montreal as a whole. I don't think I'd want to be here in the winter, though, even though a girl we met said it is "magical".
Leonard Cohen
Leonard
                Cohen
Smartphone Lady
Barb Enjoying a Romantic Dinner
in a Portugese Restaurant
Port
                Sign
At the Cruise Ship Terminal
Leaving Montreal
Leaving Montreal aboard Insignia

CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
Library
First Stop - the Ship's Library

Sept 26th

Our first cruise stop was Trois-Rivières, Quebec, on the St. Lawrence River. A pretty little town with a fine church, cafes and arty boutiques. We strolled around the town and had lunch in a little French cafe. The weather was nice enough to sit outside. Barb bought a pendant necklace in a craft shop near the waterfront.
Stained Glass
Stained Glass Window by Guido Nincheri in
the Cathedral of the Assumption, Trois-Rivières. Click for detail.
Trois Riveres Dock
Docked at Trois-Rivières

Trois Rivieres Cafe
In the French Cafe
After the tiny town of Trois Rivieres we docked in the huge harbor of Quebec City. This is a big bustling city of over half a million and is the Capital of Quebec. We had booked a tour of the surrounding countryside but it was a mess because the bicycle Grand Prix was in progress so the town center was largely closed. We had to hang around, take a small coach to meet our main coach at the Hilton Hotel and we departed half an hour late. The tour was disappointing as most of the stops were commercial and one of the remaining two was a church. That left only an impressive waterfall as the sole rural stop.


Frontenac
Château Frontenac, Quebec City

House
House in Sainte-Pétronille, Island of Orléans

Falls
Montmorency Falls
Sainte-Anne Basilica
Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré

Copper Door
Basilca Copper Door, locally crafted

CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
The Old Town area of Quebec City is very quaint and arty. It is on two levels, connected by a choice of a winding street, stairs or a funicular. Atop the high level is the impressive Château Frontenac, built by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company and opened in 1893. In both the upper and lower parts of Old Town cobbled streets are lined with restaurants, bars, shops, etc. There is a cathedral of limited splendor and the Hôtel de Ville. In my ignorance of French I assumed this is a hotel, but after seeing Hôtel de Villes in many towns, it dawned on me that it's French for Town (or City) Hall.
Funicular
Lower Old Town Street with Funicular
Princess Line
Princess Lines Cruise Ship in Dock taken
from the top of the Funicular. The diminutive
Insignia can be seen moored just behind it.

Art
                Alley
Art Alley in Upper Old Town
Wedding
Wedding Party outside the Hôtel de Ville

As noted above, we were supposed to cruise to Saguenay next day but were informed that the weather was too bad to go ashore there by tender, so we stayed another night in Quebec City. However, I checked the weather forecast for Saguenay and also the actual conditions on the day we were to be there. There were 6 mph winds and calm seas, so we were misled as to the real reason. The Captain invoked the old "Passenger Safety is our First Concern" mantra, which really dented Oceania's integrity in my opinion, and in the opinion of many other passengers on the ship. I complained about it in a mid-cruise satisfaction survey, along with a few other issues. The other issues (including our malfunctioning climate control and lukewarm food) have all been addressed in person but there is a mysterious silence on the Saguenay diversion.
Lift Shot
Elevator Selfie - Dressed Up for the Captain's
Reception.
The clientele, guests (Oceania term), passengers - call them what you will - on this cruise are predominately old overweight loudmouths, mostly from the East and Midwest of America. Some are very obnoxious and a few are borderline nuts. We were regaled by Maureen from Melbourne with stories of her insignificant life achievements for about half an hour while her husband dozed beside her. "He's lucky he's deaf", said Barb, noting the hearing aids. She reminded us of Hyacinth Bucket in Keeping Up Appearances. I wanted to tell her that but she would not let us get a word in. Another lady from California was practically foaming at the mouth about the dreadful British National Health Service versus the wonderful American system. I was quoting WHO stats at her but she would not be persuaded even though she had no direct experience of the NHS and both of us have. She kept insisting that you 'have to have supplementary insurance there' even though hardly anyone does, and it only buys you a better hospital room, maybe. The same docs are in the NHS and in private care.

Other cruises we have been on, including Oceania, have had a much broader range of ages, nationalities and cultures than this one. Why is that? I don't know, maybe it's the itinerary. It's called the "Awe of America" cruise and I am certainly in awe of the bulk of the passengers.
Leslie and Mike
We did make a few friends among the motley
crew of fellow travelers. Here are Leslie and Mike from London, now living in Portugal


CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
On Sept 16th (Day 6) we arrived in Corner Brook, Newfoundland. This is a fairly drab town centered on a huge paper mill which pumps out steam, smoke and lots of paper. Once a thriving industry in Newfoundland and Quebec, paper has now dwindled to a few mills employing far fewer workers. Corner Brook is surrounded by beautiful forests, lakes, rivers and streams. Even close to town you get a real sense of North Canadian wilderness. We walked up a trail along a salmon stream and a lake to the Glynmill Inn, a historic 1924 tudor-style hotel built in the heyday of the paper industry by the forerunner of the Bowater paper Co. We had an excellent lunch of clam chowder there in the rustic dining room, served up by ever-friendly Newfoundlers. From there we took a taxi to the Captain Cook Memorial overlooking the town before returning to the ship.
Corner Brook
Corner Brook Panorama
Paper
                Mill
Pixie
Forest Pixie
Lake
Lake
Glynmill
                Inn
The Glynmill Inn
Stream
Salmon Stream
Captain Cook
Me and my Hero, Captain Cook
Cook
                Sign

Captain Cook surveyed Newfoundland from
1763 with such accuracy that his charts were
still in use hundreds of years later. He was so
admired in England that he was next sent to
chart Tahiti and the Pacific Islands for the
first time.

Corner
                Brook
Corner Brook from the Cook Monument


CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
Sept 27th
From Corner Brook we were supposed to go to Sydney, Nova Scotia but 'bad weather' again made tendering unsafe, according to Oceania, so we spent a day at sea circling Nova Scotia to dock in Halifax, the Capital on Sept 18th. There we walked around the dock area and spent most of the afternoon in the excellent Maritime Museum. There is a great section on the Titanic disaster. Halifax was the nearest city to the ship when it went down and bodies of the victims were shipped to Halifax to be identified and shipped back to their families or buried in a local cemetery.
Samuel
                Cunard
Samuel Cunard, founder of the Cunard Line,
was born in Halifax and the company has long
been associated with the town

Drunken Lamposts
'Drunken Lampposts' on the Quay
(Not a result of the recent hurricane but an
objet d'art)
Poutine
We tried Poutine, Canada's fast-food delight.
It consists of french fries slathered in gravy
and topped with melted cheese. Deluxe
versions have bacon or shrimp added.
It was as disgusting as it looks.


CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
Lifeboat
A Lifeboat of the type fitted to the Titanic in the
Maritime Museum. Titanic had only enough
for First and Second Class passengers in
contravention of International Maritime Law.
Many of them were launched half full.

HMCS Sackville, one of the last Corvettes of
123 built in Canada. They hunted U-Boats and
helped to win the Battle of the Atlantic in WWII.
>>
Rdio
                Room
Typical Early Radio Room

Corvette
Today (Sept 27th) is our last day at sea before docking in Miami early tomorrow, so I will have to finish this journal after I get home. I still have Bar Harbor, Boston and New York and the sorry saga that befell me in Central Park to relate. Check back for the gripping tale...

Oct 5th (from home)
Bar Harbor
Bucolic Bar Harbor, Maine
After Halifax we sailed for two days before anchoring in Bar Harbor, Maine. Once a holiday haven for the Rockefellers, the Vanderbilts, J.P. Morgan and other wealthy New Yorkers, it now caters to a more eclectic mix of clientele. In addition to Insignia the harbor hosted a Princess behemoth disgorging a continuous parade of water shuttles ferrying a stream of fellow degenerates across the harbor and dumping them in the little town. As usual, we were able to evade most of them just by walking a few hundred yards along a coastal path with excellent views of Frenchman Bay and Porcupine Island. The scenery and the light attracted many artists here from the Hudson School of landscape artists. At the end of the coast path we took a sharp right into the top end of town where the houses are magnificent and the tourists few. By now my right knee was acting up and I was glad to stop for lunch at the Bar Harbor Lobster Co., an excellent outdoor restaurant with picnic tables and giant steaming kettles ready for the poor lobsters or a bag of mussels.
Margaret Tod
The Margaret Tod, a Tall Ship trip boat

Sails
Red Sails in the Sunset
House 1
Two of the Fine Houses in Town
House 2
Tree Turning
The Trees were just beginning to turn to
Autumn Colors

CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
(Except panoramas above and below)
Lobster Bisque
Barb enjoying a cup of Lobster Bisque in the
Bar Harbor Lobster Co. She followed up with
a lobster roll. I had clam chowder and a crab
roll.
I limped back down Main Street to rejoin the cruisearazzi and we sat on a bench eating ice cream and watching the parade. I had been going ashore in so many places with a heavy brace on my arthritic left leg and walking so much that it was taking a toll on my right knee, a harbinger of worse to come. Back on Insignia we cruised into a lovely sunset.
By By Bar
Bye Bye Bar Harbor
Overnight to Boston, arriving on the morning of Sept 20th. We have been here before and done most of the tourist attractions, so we took a taxi to the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library, a modern building with spectacular views of Boston Harbor and the airport. The exhibits, mostly audio visual, are arranged chronologically to facilitate an easy perambulation of the slice of history that Kennedy occupies. It was fascinating to look back at an era when political discourse was so much more intelligent and the politicians so much more refined. I make an exception for Lyndon Johnson but, although he was a coarse bugger, he had more brains than the cumulative IQ of the present White House. The Nixon/Kennedy campaign was a model of policy proposals and in-depth analysis which is totally lacking these days. The exhibits of the Bay of Pigs fiasco, the Cuban Missile Crisis and the Nuclear Arms Treaty reminded us of the scary times we lived in in the sixties.
JFK Library
Resolute
The Resolute Desk (reproduction)

The Resolute Desk has a fascinating history. HMS Resolute was abandoned in 1852, found by a US ship, restored and presented to Queen Victoria as a gift. When the ship was broken up, the Queen had the desk made from the timbers and presented it to the White House in 1878. Jackie Kennedy discovered it in storage and installed it in the Oval Office.
Ask Not
Historic Words on TV - from the Inaugural


CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
Victura
The Victura, JFK's favorite boat, a 25 ft sloop
which the family bought when he was 15.
It is one of only 200 Wianno Seniors that the
Crosby Boat Yard built in Cape Cod. It escaped
two near-disasters, a lightning strike in 1936 and
a hurricane in 1944. Kennedy dragged it ashore.
He sailed it all his life and frequently
doodled it in White House Meetings.

On then to New York, where we arrived at 1 p.m. on Sept 21st. Barb and I took a taxi to Central Park where we looked around Strawberry Fields (the unofficial Lennon memorial) and saw the Dakota Apartments, where he was shot. Further into the Park is a boating lake and the Boathouse Restaurant. It was mobbed so we got lunch at the adjacent take-away window and ate it in the Park. By then I was in a lot of pain from my right knee and on the way back I was suddenly unable to walk at all. I could not put weight on that leg without excruciating pain. We were at a total loss what to do when a portrait artist noticed us and asked if we needed help. She and Barb tried to flag down a police car (only emergency vehicles are allowed in the park) without success. Then the lady got a pedicab to come over to me. Strictly he was not allowed on the footpath but he risked his license to pick me up and take me back to Strawberry Fields to get a taxi.

I could not even walk the few yards to the taxi, so I asked a passing Rambo to help, put my arm round his shoulder and we staggered together to the cab. Whoever said New Yorkers are unfriendly? When we got to the ship, the cabbie was not allowed to drop off by the ship so I was marooned on the other side of a busy thruway. Barb went to the embarkation building but they had no wheelchairs. Then on to the ship where they refused to release a wheelchair ashore. Finally, a Port Authority employee took pity on her and came with a damaged walker to help me out. She was extremely nervous about liability and kept holding me back as I tried to cross the road. By then I had been standing in the sun for half an hour and was exhausted, thirsty and in pain. I barked at her "Let me GO! PLEASE!" and she let me go, warning me all the way about cobbles, cracks and gaps in the road. Barb said I sounded like Jim (those of you who knew him will understand). I rested in the Port Authority building while Barb sweet-talked Insignia's recalcitrant concierge into bringing me a wheelchair from the ship. Finally I collapsed into our cabin. My cruise was effectively over.
Liberty
Cruising Past the Statue of Liberty
Staten Island
Staten Island
World Trade 1
One World Trade Center
Manhatten
Cruising Past Manhattan
Empire State
Empire State Building (rear center)

Concord
We were moored next to an incongruous
Concorde at the Intrepid Museum, Pier 86
New York
Just Glance out of a Taxi and you KNOW
you're in New York.
Strawberry Fields

CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
Manhatten Night
Manhattan by Night, from our balcony.
Verrazano
Verrazano Narrows Bridge
Central Park Lake
Central Park Lake

CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE
Liberty Post Trump?
Lady Liberty Waving Immigrants Goodbye -
by order of the President
While docked in New York we were told that we would not be going to Bermuda because our arrival would coincide with that of Hurricane Jerry. Surprise, surprise. Instead we were to go down the coast to Norfolk, Virginia and Charleston, South Carolina.
Matt & JakeOn day 2 in New York, Barb went into Manhattan to meet Matt and Jake (left), her great nephews, her sister Linda's grand-kids. She said that they are delightful company. They are musicians who moved to New York, like Bob Dylan before them, to seek fame and fortune. I recorded them in 2018 jamming with their dad in his attic in Texas. One day, maybe, some music historian will dig up this video after they become famous. They are shortly to tour as "The Venus Twins". Anyway, I admire their pluck and they seem to be having a great time.

Meanwhile I rested on the ship. If you have to be disabled, a cruise ship is not a bad place to recuperate. Everything is in easy reach and room service just a phone call away. The view from the window constantly changes. After two days my knee was no better so Barb wheeled me down to the ship's doctor.
He X-rayed the knee, took a blood test to rule out gout or infection, gave me a shot of painkiller which had no effect, produced a new knee brace, said it was ‘probably’ a torn ligament and charged us $1,000. Actually it’s arthritis and two torn menisci I discovered after an MRI this Wednesday (Oct 2nd).

Shortly after we docked in Norfolk, a trip boat sailed past. The Captain addressed his passengers over the tannoy thus: "We are passing Oceania's Insignia. She should be in Bermuda today but it's a little windy out at sea, so the crew chickened out and here they are instead." Oceania was previously my favorite cruise line. I crossed the Pacific in Insignia in 2016 and Barb and I cruised the Adriatic in 2017 in Sirena, both excellent cruises. This trip was no doubt colored by my injury, but on top of that we had air conditioning that never worked properly, even after 9 visits by the technician. The food was OK but not as good as before and often served up lukewarm. Some of the staff, especially in reception, were curt or ineffective or both. The changes in itinerary and the reasons given were annoying to say the least. For an expensive upmarket cruise line it was pretty poor.

Getting off the ship and getting home was a nightmare for Barb. The concierge pretended to be helpful but Barb had to wheel me to the gangway and go through security, then we transferred to another chair to take me to a taxi outside the Miami Cruise Terminal.
Barb was totally stressed out after the long saga of getting me off the ship and on to the plane, which involved harassing several people, waiting forever in a tiny area at the airport, dealing with rude or disinterested staff and so on. Luckily, being disabled, I was invisible. Nobody talked to me about anything or even looked me in the eye, so I just dozed in my chair and/or felt sorry for Barb. She received a warning from a flight attendant on American Airlines just for saying “American Airlines really sucks” after another attendant said in a bored voice that they didn’t have any more towels for the micro-toilet (they did). No swear words or anything. She ended up in tears on the plane. Fortunately, the service in Phoenix by the airport staff (not American) was exemplary and friendly.

Now I am at home being waited on hand, foot and knee by my dear wife. My knee knows not what the future holds. It returns to the doc in 3 weeks still attached to my leg, I hope, and he will tell it what it kneeds to know.

 

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