TORCHES AND TOOLS The National hand torch is well designed for use in firing these glasses. (see Figure 2) I use a OXY # 4 tip for all operations, and find that by careful adjustment, a fine fire can be generated for cracking the neck and removing it, as well as final fire polishing and flame annealing. I use a 12 inch long, 1/2 inch diameter carbon rod for reaming the hot glass, and a 3 inch square carbon plate for truing up the fired end. For scribing, I use my carbide knife. For removing hot glass from the turntable, I use a strap of ceramic woven tape as a handle. Slip the strap over the hot glass as far away from the heated area, pinch it tight and remove the glass to a cooling or annealing area. Soft glass can be chilled and cracked while very hot if it contacts a cold surface. Do not allow hot glasses to touch each other while cooling.
	ROTATING AND FIRE POLISHING CUT EDGES If one has, or has access to, a glassblowing lathe, the headstock is used to hold the cut glass during fire polishing operations. A suitable , cheap substitute rotation device can be made from a record player. Most record players are now delegated to the Goodwill type stores, and can be obtained cheaply. With some modifications, it can be turned into a vertical lathe, rotating the cut glass. Saw off, or remove the center spindle used for the records, and make a plywood plate to stand your glasses on. (Figure 3).
					Figure 3
	The rotation at 33 1/3 RPM works best for firing the cut edge. Center the glass by tapping it. You now have a platform to rotate the glass vertically. It is not possible to perform any reaming or forming processes using this machine, as the glass is not held firmly, as in a glassblowing lathe. It can only be fire polished and flame annealed.
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