This year we are not planning to cruise much but just use Basil as a base from which to explore other things. We may go on a short two-week cruise, depending on the weather, how we feel and if we have visitors. We have trips to Kent and Devon planned, a self-drive tour of the Scottish Highlands following the 'North Coast 500' route and a trip to Portugal including a cruise up the River Douro.
We will be arriving in the UK on June 25th. Stay tuned....
June 28th
We have arrived safely in the UK and are fighting the time change. We got upgraded to First Class on British Airways so we were pampered passengers. Somewhat marred by having to wait at Heathrow on the tarmac for an hour until a gate became available.
Worse jet lag than usual, for some reason. We can't get to sleep until 2 or 3 a.m. then we sleep until 10. As a result we are behind schedule and we booked an extra night tonight in the hotel to catch up. Basil boat is in generally good condition except the shower won't shut off completely and he is absolutely filthy outside, covered in soot and mildew from the long wet English winter. Have not looked at the engine yet. The solar panels kept the batteries charged all winter with no problem. The weather has been good up to now but rain is forecast for later today and tomorrow.
The infamous vote for Britain to leave the European Union occurred the day before we left, so all the news channels are in furor 24/7. The politicians are mostly hiding and resigning. Both parties are disintegrating and it's quite clear that none of them have a plan for what to do next. The pound and the stock market are tanking. Normally we spend pounds here but we have switched to using a US credit card mostly because it's so much cheaper. I just watched Nigel Farage (leader of the nationalist UKip party) gloating before the European Parliament to howls of disgust and derision. A Scottish MEP pleaded that Scotland voted to stay in and "Scotland is an international, inclusive, environmental country and we do not want to leave the Union.." to cheers from the other MEPs. He said he is proud to be Scottish and proud to be European.
No photos yet but here's a live
webcam shot of the marina:
July 5th
Not much of interest to report so far. After a week of dismal weather we had a couple of days of mixed sun and clouds so were able to go out for a walk in this verdant land. I turned our rental car in yesterday and I was treated to stunning views of the Trent Valley on the bus back from Burton. Huge and ancient oaks set in green pastures along the river. It looked like a scene from a tourist brochure. Pastoral England still delivers in the sun. Barb was not with me but she has become somewhat jaded about this. She hates the climate, the toothless bent-over grannies and the little houses she once thought quaint are now just 'old'. Boating life suits her no more and she does not want to return next year.
We had a memorable evening with a friend and his Chinese companion who is living here doing research on sealed buildings at Nottingham University. We were very impressed with Ken. Meeting young people like him always gives me great hope for the future. I feel the same way when I meet the altruistic students at Arizona State University's Engineering College. Ken also cycles to raise funds for children's brain tumour research. We ate at Masa, a swanky restaurant in an old Wesleyan chapel in Derby. Good food, good company.
It took me three days to clean Basil up. The engine started up right away after I dewinterized it. We had the Webasto heater serviced and it worked much better. Even the heated towel rail in the bathroom, which has never worked, sprang into life. Only our shower is dead, Triton are coming to fix the mixer on Thursday.
The sun just made a guest appearance so I must join Barb for a ramble...
July 7th
Some
excitement at last, though in a form neither expected
nor welcomed. Liza, our friend from Bury St. Edmunds
arrived yesterday and after an evening at the Boardwalk
we returned to the boat. I went to bed at 10 while Barb
and Liza continued catching up on old times. Sometime
later I was awakened by Mike, our next door neighbour,
shouting my name. He had heard a cry and a splash and
found Liza in the water behind our boat next to the
rudder (photo left). She was incoherent and not even
trying to get out. Mike and I attempted to pull her out
but we were not strong enough. Danny, another nearby
moorer (and young and strong), fetched a ladder and we
got her out that way. I called 999 while Barb got her
out of her wet clothes and loaned her a robe. Liza had a
huge lump on the back of her head and one on her left
cheekbone. The ambulance finally arrived after what
seemed like an eternity and took her to the Royal Derby
Hospital. I followed by car with Terry, one of the
Mercia volunteer first aiders. I stayed at the busy
A&E (ER) until 2:30 a.m. when a nurse arrived. I was
sure that Liza would be kept in overnight but they
released her sometime before 4 a.m. She got a taxi back
to the marina and texted and called us but we were
asleep and did not hear the phone. She was unable to get
through the security gate so stayed in her car until
about 6:30 a.m. when somebody let her in.
Nobody saw the actual incident but we think she was intoxicated and walked off the back of the boat instead of the side on her way to the loo. The gap from the stern to the jetty is much wider than the side exit. Today she is sore all over, nauseous, and her left eye is practically closed up. She has no memory of anything after dinner. She was supposed to drive back to Bury today but she'll be here at least another day. She is constantly apologizing and beating herself up about her stupidity but we have since learned that falling in is not an unusual event. It could have been much worse and, if Mike had not heard her, possibly fatal. Also a big lesson on the dangers of the demon drink.
July 9th
Bonus entry today as it is peeing with rain and we are confined to the boat, which is cozy and warm as the rain beats on the roof. More about the weather later. Liza was much better yesterday. She looked made up for Halloween but the swelling had subsided and she felt much better. I was dying to take her photo but I was vetoed by a chorus of howls from the ladies. We are all on the wagon now as a result of this scare.
Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day but what did we
do? We spent all afternoon indoors watching the
Wimbledon men's semifinals. We were gutted (to use a
British expression) by Federer's demise and felt really
sorry for him at his press conference as he seemed so
down in the dumps. Murray cruised through in a boring
match, so it's going to be a Murray / Raonic final on
Sunday. The media storm about Brexit has abated and for
once the BBC showed American news of the police
shootings in Louisiana and Minnesota and the sniper
response in Dallas.
Barbara is constantly venting about the weather and adding it to her list of reasons why she's not coming back next year. To me it's a typical English summer, albeit wetter than usual. The weather doesn't affect me much. Of course I'm happier if it's sunny, but I like the continual changes as bands of rain move across the country. It's not cold to me but Barb has the heating on every morning as she is cold. I don't know what we're going to do next year. I like it here and I like living on the boat even in the marina but Barb hates it. I'm sure we'll work it out as we have always tackled these big issues over 38 years of marriage but this is a tough one.
July 21
On July 12th we rented a car and drove down to Kent
to visit my family. One of the most hair-raising drives
of my life as the M25 London Orbital, always one of the
hairiest and most congested motorways in the world, was
socked in by driving rain and near zero visibility. We
stayed in Woodchurch, where I grew up, with my brother
Michael and his wife Angela. They still live in the
house where my Mum and Dad lived after they retired.
Mick & Ange drove us to the White Cliffs
of Dover where we walked along the chalk downs that form
the cliffs from Dover Castle to the North Foreland
lighthouse. The air was so clear that we could see the
coast of France, 20 miles across the English Channel (La
Manche to the French), and a constant parade of ferries
shuttled cars, trucks and people to and from the
Continent. The Channel Tunnel has not ruined the ferry
traffic as was once predicted but it has brought the
cost down. About one in two of our fellow walkers were
speaking French. No doubt they were over for the day
having spent a couple of euros for the ferry fare.
Another day we drove to Herne Bay for a family
reunion and to meet my niece Alison's newly adopted
kids. I am unable to publish photos of them,
unfortunately, because their biological parents may see
them and try to track them down. They are very cute,
though! The party was held at Alistair and Liz's estate
in Herne.
Now we are back at Mercia Marina. As usual, there
are boat problems. Currently we have no shower. The
makers of the shower mixer, Triton, have been twice to
fix it but it still won't flow. My new theory is that
the filters on the input are blocked so I am trying to
get a fitter to look at it. I tried, but the access is
so difficult I gave up. Fortunately, we are right next
to a shower block here but we cannot cruise. Next week
we are off to Devon to stay in Sidmouth and visit
friends Peter and Jane who came on the boat last year.
More after that..
August 3rd
Our visit to Sidmouth coincided with the start of the school holidays, a mistake we are unlikely to repeat. The drive down was murder, exceeded only by the medieval torture of the drive back. Although almost all of the journey was on Motorways (Freeways) we were stuck in stop-start traffic queues almost all the way. A journey which should have taken less than four hours took more than six. I have formerly vented about too many cars for the tiny rural roads that were built for horse and trap, now it appears there are too many for modern freeway systems. Blame it on the pesky schoolchildren.
Once installed in the comfortable Sidmouth Harbour Hotel, a four star establishment with a view of the sea over a few rooftops, we began to relax and enjoy ourselves. Being British, the hotel had a few little quirks. Our room was brand new but the shower controls interfered with each other, there were no make-up / shaving lights beside the mirror, turning on the desk lamp involved crawling under the desk to find the switch, the room safe (which broke twice) could easily be stolen by a one-armed midget - and on and on. The service in the restaurant was at the smarmy end of unctuous and mostly ineffective. When the food finally came it was acceptable. The room was very comfortable, though, and we slept like marmots in winter with gentle sea breezes twitching the curtains. Daily we awoke to the crying of seagulls overhead.
On the first day after arrival we met our friends
Jane and Peter, who live inland just over an hour away.
Peter organised a fairly gentle walk from Weston along
the coastal path over the cliffs and down to Branscombe.
Jane wasn't feeling too great so she accompanied us for
a little way and then drove to Branscombe to pick us up.
These days, my ankles are arthritic and I cannot do the
major hikes that I used to, so I was grateful for the
respite. At Branscombe, after some minor confusion over
where to meet, we had an alfresco lunch in the Mason's Arms.
Then we drove to an Iron Age hill fort, Blackbury
Camp, set in beautiful wooded country above the
River Coly drainage far below. Peter broke out a
tailgate tea (hot tea, cake and flapjacks) and then we
drove back to Weston to pick up our car and then on to the Swan
in Sidmouth for an excellent and fairly priced dinner.
We all had grilled or lightly battered fish with veg or
salads.
Next day we drove to Peter and Jane's farmhouse
with its stunning views over the Devonian landscape and
collection of fine art by Peter and his students. After
high school, I went the science and engineering route
and Peter veered to art. We lost touch for many years
but I am glad that we have reconnected as Peter and Jane
share our enthusiasm for learning and interest in
everything from politics and geology to art. They voted
to remain in the European Union unlike the majority of
the population of Devon.
Their cat, Rascal, totally lived up to his name and showed off his acrobatic abilities, following us around the farm as we inspected the sheep, the geese, the chickens and Jane's comprehensive veggy garden. Peter showed us the solar panels that power the house and the septic system which he dug by hand. I had to lay down just thinking about all that work! After dinner and after the geese were herded into their barn for the night, we drove back along the impossibly narrow but traffic-free lanes to Sidmouth, arriving after 10 p.m. The days are closing in now and it was dark by then.
We spent our final day in Sidmouth on our own and
we hiked up Salcombe Hill, a tough climb up a cliff to
the east of town, where we had spectacular views over
the surrounding seascape. A further hike inland led us
through pleasant woodland and back into town down a
muddy trail. Later I noticed a major landslip off
Salcombe Cliff which must have happened the same day
(see photos). We splurged for dinner and ate at Neil's,
an upmarket fish restaurant with excellent food. Barb
had Prawn and Crab bisque to start, I had Crispy
Beer-Battered Goujons of Brixham Gurnard. For main
course I had Brixham Hake with a crab and coriander
crust. Barb had Grilled Cornish Sardines. In spite of
the somewhat overwrought and pretentious descriptions,
the food was delicious. We made friends with the next
table and wobbled off to our hotel in the gathering
dusk. The annual Folk Festival was just beginning and
Barb watched a merry troupe of Morris dancers in the
Market Square while I returned to Neil's to collect my
camera which I had left there by mistake (more of that
later).
Not much of interest to report so far. After a week of dismal weather we had a couple of days of mixed sun and clouds so were able to go out for a walk in this verdant land. I turned our rental car in yesterday and I was treated to stunning views of the Trent Valley on the bus back from Burton. Huge and ancient oaks set in green pastures along the river. It looked like a scene from a tourist brochure. Pastoral England still delivers in the sun. Barb was not with me but she has become somewhat jaded about this. She hates the climate, the toothless bent-over grannies and the little houses she once thought quaint are now just 'old'. Boating life suits her no more and she does not want to return next year.
We had a memorable evening with a friend and his Chinese companion who is living here doing research on sealed buildings at Nottingham University. We were very impressed with Ken. Meeting young people like him always gives me great hope for the future. I feel the same way when I meet the altruistic students at Arizona State University's Engineering College. Ken also cycles to raise funds for children's brain tumour research. We ate at Masa, a swanky restaurant in an old Wesleyan chapel in Derby. Good food, good company.
It took me three days to clean Basil up. The engine started up right away after I dewinterized it. We had the Webasto heater serviced and it worked much better. Even the heated towel rail in the bathroom, which has never worked, sprang into life. Only our shower is dead, Triton are coming to fix the mixer on Thursday.
The sun just made a guest appearance so I must join Barb for a ramble...
 Rainbow Over Mercia |
 Basil Cleaned Up |
 Damselfly on Basil's Bank |
Some
excitement at last, though in a form neither expected
nor welcomed. Liza, our friend from Bury St. Edmunds
arrived yesterday and after an evening at the Boardwalk
we returned to the boat. I went to bed at 10 while Barb
and Liza continued catching up on old times. Sometime
later I was awakened by Mike, our next door neighbour,
shouting my name. He had heard a cry and a splash and
found Liza in the water behind our boat next to the
rudder (photo left). She was incoherent and not even
trying to get out. Mike and I attempted to pull her out
but we were not strong enough. Danny, another nearby
moorer (and young and strong), fetched a ladder and we
got her out that way. I called 999 while Barb got her
out of her wet clothes and loaned her a robe. Liza had a
huge lump on the back of her head and one on her left
cheekbone. The ambulance finally arrived after what
seemed like an eternity and took her to the Royal Derby
Hospital. I followed by car with Terry, one of the
Mercia volunteer first aiders. I stayed at the busy
A&E (ER) until 2:30 a.m. when a nurse arrived. I was
sure that Liza would be kept in overnight but they
released her sometime before 4 a.m. She got a taxi back
to the marina and texted and called us but we were
asleep and did not hear the phone. She was unable to get
through the security gate so stayed in her car until
about 6:30 a.m. when somebody let her in.Nobody saw the actual incident but we think she was intoxicated and walked off the back of the boat instead of the side on her way to the loo. The gap from the stern to the jetty is much wider than the side exit. Today she is sore all over, nauseous, and her left eye is practically closed up. She has no memory of anything after dinner. She was supposed to drive back to Bury today but she'll be here at least another day. She is constantly apologizing and beating herself up about her stupidity but we have since learned that falling in is not an unusual event. It could have been much worse and, if Mike had not heard her, possibly fatal. Also a big lesson on the dangers of the demon drink.
July 9th
Bonus entry today as it is peeing with rain and we are confined to the boat, which is cozy and warm as the rain beats on the roof. More about the weather later. Liza was much better yesterday. She looked made up for Halloween but the swelling had subsided and she felt much better. I was dying to take her photo but I was vetoed by a chorus of howls from the ladies. We are all on the wagon now as a result of this scare.
 Liza Before the Accident (at the Boardwalk) |
 Mercia Trip Boat on the Trent & Mersey Canal CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Rare Blue Sky |
Barbara is constantly venting about the weather and adding it to her list of reasons why she's not coming back next year. To me it's a typical English summer, albeit wetter than usual. The weather doesn't affect me much. Of course I'm happier if it's sunny, but I like the continual changes as bands of rain move across the country. It's not cold to me but Barb has the heating on every morning as she is cold. I don't know what we're going to do next year. I like it here and I like living on the boat even in the marina but Barb hates it. I'm sure we'll work it out as we have always tackled these big issues over 38 years of marriage but this is a tough one.
 Morning Deluge |
 Barb Praying for Sun (Actually, she's exercising) |
 Even the Ducks are Sheltering |
We had a very busy 10 days so have not
had much time for this diary.
|
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PHOTO TOUR OF WOODCHURCH
 Townland Cottage where I lived until I was ten or so |
 ^ < FAMILY HOMES > Green Hedges (right half of house above) where I lived until I left home |
 Pilgrim House where my Mum & Dad retired to and where Michael & Angela live now |
 The Church of All Saints |
 Mum & Dad's Grave Marker CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Windmill Restored by the Woodchurch Windmill Society |
 The Bonny Cravat Pub conveniently opposite the church |
 .. and next door, The Six Bells |
 Hendon House, reputedly the oldest in the village |
 The Village Green Michael at the Village
Pump >>
once the main source of water
for
those without a well. |
 |
 Barb on the Village Green |
 Dover Castle |
 Mick & Ange on the White Cliffs |
 The North Foreland Lighthouse |
 New Dad Phil at Work |
 My Nephew Josh with Anonymous Child |
 Late Afternoon at the Marina CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
August 3rd
Our visit to Sidmouth coincided with the start of the school holidays, a mistake we are unlikely to repeat. The drive down was murder, exceeded only by the medieval torture of the drive back. Although almost all of the journey was on Motorways (Freeways) we were stuck in stop-start traffic queues almost all the way. A journey which should have taken less than four hours took more than six. I have formerly vented about too many cars for the tiny rural roads that were built for horse and trap, now it appears there are too many for modern freeway systems. Blame it on the pesky schoolchildren.
Once installed in the comfortable Sidmouth Harbour Hotel, a four star establishment with a view of the sea over a few rooftops, we began to relax and enjoy ourselves. Being British, the hotel had a few little quirks. Our room was brand new but the shower controls interfered with each other, there were no make-up / shaving lights beside the mirror, turning on the desk lamp involved crawling under the desk to find the switch, the room safe (which broke twice) could easily be stolen by a one-armed midget - and on and on. The service in the restaurant was at the smarmy end of unctuous and mostly ineffective. When the food finally came it was acceptable. The room was very comfortable, though, and we slept like marmots in winter with gentle sea breezes twitching the curtains. Daily we awoke to the crying of seagulls overhead.
 Sidmouth is a Flower Town -These are in the Connaught Gardens |
 More Flowers at the Clock Tower |
 - - and My Personal Flower |
 Overlooking Branscombe |
 With Peter & Jane at the Mason's Arms |
 Tailgate Tea |
Their cat, Rascal, totally lived up to his name and showed off his acrobatic abilities, following us around the farm as we inspected the sheep, the geese, the chickens and Jane's comprehensive veggy garden. Peter showed us the solar panels that power the house and the septic system which he dug by hand. I had to lay down just thinking about all that work! After dinner and after the geese were herded into their barn for the night, we drove back along the impossibly narrow but traffic-free lanes to Sidmouth, arriving after 10 p.m. The days are closing in now and it was dark by then.
 Rascal Living up to His Name |
 Poppy Flower in the Garden |
 Jane Herding Geese CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Climbing Salcombe Hill |
 Sidmouth Bay from Salcombe Hill CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Sidmouth Promenade |
 Day 1 - No Landslide |
 Day 4 - Landslide |
 Low Tide at Sidmouth |
 In Neil's Restaurant |
 Also in Neil's |
 Morris Dancers |
 Chesterfield High Street |
 The Crooked Spire of Chesterfield Church |
 The end of the Restored Section of the Chesterfield Canal now disconnected but, eventually (I hope in my lifetime) it will be once again connected to the network. |
On the
Marina 7:35 p.m. August 5th.
(Photo by Robert Neff)
CLICK to ENLARGE
August 20th(Photo by Robert Neff)
CLICK to ENLARGE
We are back from a wonderful tour of the far north of Scotland following the North Coast 500 route from Inverness. We travelled across to the west coast then followed a tortuous route over twisting single track roads to Ullapool. From here the route took us to Cape Wrath and along the north coast to John O' Groats before turning south and following the scenic east coast route back to Inverness. Our trip was organized by McKinlay Kidd and they did an excellent job, with one or two minor caveats. In general we got the best rooms in all of the hotels, which is unusual for a journey organized by a travel company.
At the outset I must say that the Scots do not live up to their stereotype of dour tightwads. The Scots we met were all fun loving adventurous people with a great sense of humor. Not once did we have to show a credit card or any form of ID before running up large drink and dinner bills at every hotel. As a race they seem mostly taller, thinner and fitter than the English, though that could be because we were in the Highlands for the whole trip.
On August 8th we travelled by train from Derby to Inverness, changing at Edinburgh and Perth, a journey of about 6 1/2 hours. The train to Edinburgh on CrossCountry Trains was comfortable and smooth, though meal service was terminated unexpectedly at York. The Scotrail services from Edinburgh were a little rickety and uncomfortable, mostly on single track lines, but the grandeur of the scenery compensated mightily. Just outside Edinburgh we crossed the Forth Bridge, one of the great engineering achievements of the Victorian era and still standing strong.
In Inverness we stayed at the Moyness House, an upmarket B&B within easy walking distance of the town centre. We ate at the Mustard Seed restaurant and explored part of the town alongside the fast flowing River Ness.
 On the Scotrail Train |
 Stop at Aviemore CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Inverness at Dusk |
 |
 The Ruins of Strome Castle (Above and Left) CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Poppy Gallery at Lochcarron |
 Hazards of the Road -- Sheep ... |
 ... Highland Cattle ... |
 ... and Baby Highland Cattle |
 Shieldag  Tigh an Eilean Hotel Ancient Phone Box >>
Still Working! >> CLICK on IMAGES above to ENLARGE
|
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 Wet Hiker |
 Shieldag from Our Hike |
 Fellow Hikers |
Next day we continued north,
still on a mostly single-track road, through
Torridan, Kinlochewe and Poolewe to Ullapool. We
stopped at Gairloch (left) which has a tiny
harbour offering whale watching and fishing trips
(all cancelled because of the weather). The
mountains were a hazy spectre in the distance and
the lochs disappeared into a sea of mist and rain.
It was all very Lord of the Rings and I expected
the Eye of the Tower of Sauron to appear at any
minute. We also stopped at the Corrieshalloc Gorge and viewed the waterfalls below from the suspension bridge. From there it was an easy drive to the relative urbanity of Ullapool and the Ceilidh Place Hotel. The hotel (pronounced kay-ley, meaning social event or party) is a combination hotel, bunkhouse, cafe, musical venue and an eclectic bookstore. I bought a copy of Bill Bryson's 'The Road to Little Dribbling' which kept me amused until the end of the trip. Barb bought 'The Guest Cat' by Takashi Hiraide.
 Corrieshalloc Gorge |
 MacBrayne Ferry from Stornoway entering Ullapool CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE (except panorama) |
 Old House in Ullapool |
Ullapool Panorama
On
August 13th our journey continued to the north
along a mixture of highway and single-track roads
to Durness where we turned east to traverse the
north coast almost to Thurso. The scenery changed
dramatically from the mist shrouded mountains and
forests of the west coast to rolling hills
stripped of most vegetation. Almost a desert, it
was reminiscent of parts of Southern Arizona,
though with a completely different climate. The
weather began to clear and we were rewarded with
clear views of the Orkney Islands far over the
Pentland Firth. We stopped to admire the coast
(right) and at Cocoa
Mountain at Balnakiel, a famous chocolatier,
whose customers include Prince Charles and Yoko
Ono. It was formed in 2006 by a gay couple, Paul Maden and James Findlay,
who were almost forced out in 2013 by homophobic
harassment and shouts of "..English queers". Busy Scene at Cocoa Mountain |
 Chocolates on Display CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Misty View on the North Coast |
Next morning, I looked out of our window and saw a gent in a tweed jacket festooned with little pockets, plus-fours, river boots and a tartan cap climbing into an antique car. Next to him, loading a huge net and fly rods into a 4X4, was a young flunkey (the Gillie, maybe?). I thought I had been wafted back in time to 1909.
 The Forss House Hotel |
 A Waterfall in the Grounds |
 Bridge over the River (labelled 'unsafe' but we used it anyway) |
While staying at the Forss
House for two nights, we drove along the coast to
Dunnet Head,
the most northerly point on the UK mainland. Most
people think that's John O' Groats but it ain't
so. There were a few people hanging around
watching the impressive display of seabirds
floating over the cliffs, but it was nothing like
the tourist Mecca of John O' Groats. There is an
impressive lighthouse and foghorn (right), now
automated.We also visited the Castle of Mey, the last summer home of the Queen Mother and the only home she owned personally. She discovered it and bought it in 1952 on a visit to a friend in Scotland and while mourning the death of her husband, King George VI. It was in a dreadful state but she restored it by 1955 and it became her favourite retreat. After her last summer there when she was 101, she bequeathed it to a Trust in perpetuity. Prince Charles still stays there sometimes (he had just left the Sunday prior to our visit) but he has to pay rent to the Trust. We were given a fascinating tour of the castle, along with another couple, by a very knowledgeable and interesting guide. The castle is just as she left it and there are lots of photos of the Royals on family outings and of the Queen Mother in various poses in the rooms and gardens. She loved to be outdoors and lunches were almost always picnic expeditions to some local beauty spot. There is a guest book signed 'Lilibet' (the Queen's nickname), Charles, Andrew, etc., etc. The family would usually arrive on the Royal Yacht Britannia which docked in nearby Scrabster. I'm not a staunch Royalist but I did admire the Queen Mother and I was mightily impressed by this glimpse of her life. Well worth the £9.75 senior entry fee. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside the castle.
 The Castle of Mey |
 The Walled Garden |
 Barb in Queenly Pose |
 Doing the Tourist Thing CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 John O' Groats Ferry  Tiny Harbour off the A9 Scottish Banks Print their own
Money >>
(also grudgingly accepted in
England)
|
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There's not much to do in Dornoch apart from toilet wrestling and a good beach. We ate a forgettable meal in the Dornoch Castle Hotel where other diners praised the rooms therein.
Next day we completed the circuit by driving back to Inverness. We took a detour via Loch Ness to see the monster. All the lochside attractions were seething with tourists so we tarried not. We had a very nice lunch in the splendid Loch Ness Country House Hotel, which we discovered by accident, brooding over a valley off the main road. We split a sandwich and were glad we did. It was HUUUGE! At Inverness I turned in the car, with 620 extra miles on its odometer, and we rested again in the Moyness House hotel. We did a long walk along to the Caledonian Canal and down to the river Ness and back into town. Finally we splurged on dinner at Inverness's finest restaurant Rocpool.
 Dornoch Beach |
 Loch Ness |
 Lunch Stop at the Loch Ness Country House |
On August 17th we returned to the Marina by train and taxi and here we are in the rain and wind again. The weather is supposed to clear next week so maybe we'll be able to do a bit of cruising. |
 The Caledonian Canal |
 Perth Station |
We have managed to cruise for a few days in mostly fine weather, up the Trent and Mersey to Alrewas, a classic canal village which we have often visited. We went for walks, explored the little church at Wychnor and ate one night in the Crown (not so hot - Barb ordered a 'spicy bean burger' which came as a potato cake and was promptly returned). Here are some photos:
 First Night in the Sticks |
 Peaceful Pound on the Trent and Mersey CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Our Preferred Mooring at Alrewas |
 Wychnor Church |
 My Favourite River - the Trent at Alrewas |
 Cloudscape |
On
the way back, we moored in Burton-Upon-Trent (left)
to attend a Sunday lunch birthday party in the
Brewery Tap. Our friend and fellow Mercia moorer,
John Harman, turned 70 and his wife Nancy arranged a
huge surprise party for him (below). Nancy is on the
left foreground and John is talking to her.
Unfortunately, due to a mix-up in the time, we
missed the surprise bit but apparently John was duly
gobsmacked. Nancy also writes
a journal about life on the waterways.
Now we are back in the marina
preparing for a three week trip to London (4 days),
Lisbon (4 days), a one week cruise up the River Douro
to Porto
and then a couple of days in Santiago
de Compostelo, Spain. More news about that after
our return on Sept 22nd.
Sept 23rd
Back aboard Basil after a 3-week jaunt to London, Portugal, Spain and London again. It will take me awhile to sort through the hundreds of photos I took, so I will be doing so over the course of the next few days. There will be minimal verbiage and maximal pictures.
Josh is Nigel's son (my nephew) and we met his new
girlfriend, Amber, for the first time.
The Globe Theatre is a careful reconstruction of the original Globe where Shakespeare wrote and performed.
The privately-owned brainchild of American actor Sam Wanamaker, it was completed after his death.
Tickets to the floor (the original 'mosh pit'?) cost a penny in the original, £5 today.
There were no toilets in the original and people had to pay again to get back in, so most punters peed on the floor.
On the second shorter visit we went (with Amber again) to the Victoria and Albert museum for You Say You Want a Revolution, a Sixties exhibition. We rode the London Eye, a giant ferris wheel on the South Bank, and went to a Georgia O'Keeffe exhibition at the Tate Modern.
LISBON
View of Lisbon from Across the Tagus
Bridge Over the Tagus
(Built to the design of the Golden Gate bridge by the same architect.
A railroad deck was added below - a testament to the strength of the design, I hope.)
COIMBRA
Next day, we had the
choice of an organized group tour of Porto
or to do it on our own. We chose the
latter. The morning dawned misty as we
rode the Gaia cable car right from the
dock to the upper level of the Luis
I Bridge. The vertiginous pedestrian deck
is shared by trains (somewhat alarmingly)
and offers wonderful views of the city
from high above.
The advantage of crossing the upper
deck of the bridge is that we ended up at
about the same level as the Cathedral, an
imposing edifice that tops the town. We also
visited the main rail station before winding
our way down through narrow streets to the
river again. We explored the picturesque
waterfront before crossing the bridge again at
the lower level. This deck has a narrow
footpath adjacent to a road full of Portuguese
drivers which I found even more alarming than
the trains. Back to the Hemming for
lunch and a 2 p.m. cast-off for our Douro
River Cruise.
The next six days were spent navigating
this beautiful river as far as the border with
Spain and back. The river is magnificent and
becomes more dramatic as it climbs through
canyons reminiscent of the Colorado gorge. The
lower reaches are lined with Quintas (large
estates of multiple vineyards) bearing the name
boards of famous vintners. Cute little villages
cling precariously to steep slopes, stepping
down to quays by the river. Everywhere the
landscape is wrested from nature by man - whole
hillsides sculpted by hard graft and hand tools
into terraces tumbling down in rows of
sun-kissed vines.
In the higher gorge, nature returns. Sparse vegetation struggles on the dry earth. There are few houses. Only the little railway continues to snake alongside the river as evidence of civilization. Vultures and eagles swoop overhead. Wildcats, roe deer and wild boar roam the land, apparently, but all we saw were a few griffin vultures and some goats.
In stark contrast to all this man-made and natural beauty are the giant modern works that form the five locks and dams that allow navigation. They appear as huge concrete monoliths in the distance, morphing into flood gates and giant lock entrances as we approach. The locks are truly gigantic, the largest I have ever seen. They have lifts of 46/115/84/109 and 72 feet respectively. A large lock for Basil the King would have a lift of 14 feet by comparison! The view from the top of one of these locks to the river far below is a sight to behold. A variety of huge guillotine, radial and mitre gates control the entrances to these edifices. Some of the guillotine gates descend into the lock to open, a technique I have not seen before. All the locks are 12 metres (46 feet) wide and about 300 feet long. Hemming was built to fit with about a foot to spare each side. Captain Carolina nudged all but one. I can relate.
Portugal is a relatively poor country, so how did it afford these giant works and the blasting of a channel through solid rock that enabled navigation? Just for the benefit of a few tourists? There is no commercial traffic to speak of, and only 12 large Riverboats like ours ply the Douro. It must have cost billions of euros. I was unable to find a complete answer but the dams generate a lot of hydro electricity and the European Union paid for most of the construction, I understand. The hydro plants generate about 3,300 Gigawatts per year. Portugal generates 80% of its power with renewable energy, a staggering achievement compared to other developed economies. On hot sunny days the figure is 100%.
There were several discussions with our guides about Brexit and their feeling about the European Union. On the plus side, the EU has brought enormous advantages in terms of infrastructure which was very evident in the quality of roads, railways and bridges - far superior to those in the UK or USA. On the other hand they resent how little power they have in governing the Union, and the petty regulations that emanate from Brussels. In years of plenty, Portuguese farmers have been forced to burn crops and destroy tons of tomatoes so as not to exceed EU quotas. The Portuguese are generally very pro-British. In 1373 England and Portugal signed the Anglo-Portuguese Alliance, the oldest alliance in the world still in force. So they have some sympathy with the Brexit conundrum. Anti EU politics exist in Portugal, but not as strongly as in the UK.
Well, after promising to keep the verbiage in check I have succumbed to a bout of verbal diarrhea, so forthwith back to the photos:
Sept 23rd
Back aboard Basil after a 3-week jaunt to London, Portugal, Spain and London again. It will take me awhile to sort through the hundreds of photos I took, so I will be doing so over the course of the next few days. There will be minimal verbiage and maximal pictures.
First - London. I have combined our two visits into one photo essay. During the first four day trip we met up with some of my family and went for a long walk along the river with them to the Chelsea Physic Garden. We went to see Kenneth Branagh in The Entertainer and to a performance of Shakespeare's Macbeth at the Globe Theatre on the South Bank of the Thames. We also toured the Rolling Stones exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery.Nigel and Barb
decided |
 |
 Messy but Expensive Street CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE (except sign above) |
 The Carter Gang - Michael & Angela, Barbara, Josh & Amber, Sandra and Nigel in the Chelsea Physic Garden |
 We Three Brothers in the Cooper's Arms, a Chelsea Young's Pub |
 Sloane Rangers at Sloane Square |
The Globe Theatre is a careful reconstruction of the original Globe where Shakespeare wrote and performed.
The privately-owned brainchild of American actor Sam Wanamaker, it was completed after his death.
Tickets to the floor (the original 'mosh pit'?) cost a penny in the original, £5 today.
There were no toilets in the original and people had to pay again to get back in, so most punters peed on the floor.
On the second shorter visit we went (with Amber again) to the Victoria and Albert museum for You Say You Want a Revolution, a Sixties exhibition. We rode the London Eye, a giant ferris wheel on the South Bank, and went to a Georgia O'Keeffe exhibition at the Tate Modern.
 Amber and Barb in Front of the London Eye |
 Barb in the Eye  The Thames by Night |
 Houses of Parliament and Westminster Bridge from the Eye  St. Paul's Cathedral and the Millennium Bridge |
 The Coat of Arms of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway on Blackfriars Bridge. CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
LISBON
View of Lisbon from Across the Tagus
We spent four days
in Lisbon and, although the city has its
charms, we were more impressed with Porto.
Lisbon is a big dirty city with a massive
graffiti problem. On arrival, our pilot pulled
off an exemplary crosswind landing (I
complimented him) and the wind was an
intermittent problem while were were there.
Anyway, Porto came later, so this impression
of Lisbon comes with the benefit of hindsight
and we did enjoy our time there. We stayed in
a very swanky five star hotel, the Hotel
Tivoli Lisboa and had the best meal in
Lisbon on the first night at the hotel's
brasserie. Unusual for a hotel restaurant.
Generally, we were underwhelmed by Portuguese
grub.
Lisbon was devastated by a massive earthquake in 1775 which resulted in new building codes. There are few high-rise buidings and many new buildings are contructed with reinforced concrete frames. Many old masonry buildings remain and there is still the potential for major earthquake damage.
Lisbon was devastated by a massive earthquake in 1775 which resulted in new building codes. There are few high-rise buidings and many new buildings are contructed with reinforced concrete frames. Many old masonry buildings remain and there is still the potential for major earthquake damage.
Viking (the tour company) provided a walking tour of the city and a bus tour while we were there, the rest of the time we were on our own. We took a train to the ancient town of Sintra which was seething with other tourists. Here are some photos: |
 Guide Marlene tells how Saint Anthony found her a potential husband (somewhat tongue-in-cheek) |
 Typical Street. Cobblestones and Painted Houses CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Avenue de Liberdade (across from the Hotel Tivoli) |
 The Streets in the Old Town are Lined with Little Shops |
 The Old Jewish Quarter (Portugal has a mixed history with Jews. Many were expelled or forced to convert during the Inquisition but many were saved in WWII because Portugal was a neutral zone) |
 Old Funicular. Made in Birmingham and Still Going Strong |
 Church Interior (Sorry, we saw so many I can't remember which this was) |
 Detail in Chapel of Church CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 The Belém Tower |
 Jerónimos Monastery Cloisters |
 Cloisters Detail |
 Boarding a Train for the Ride to Sintra |
 The National Palace of Sintra |
 Moorish Influence in Sintra |
Bridge Over the Tagus
(Built to the design of the Golden Gate bridge by the same architect.
A railroad deck was added below - a testament to the strength of the design, I hope.)
COIMBRA
During the
transfer from Lisbon to Porto, a journey
of about 6 hours by coach, we stopped in
Coimbra, a beautiful hill town and home of
Portugal's oldest and finest University.
Founded in Lisbon in 1290, it moved to
Coimbra in 1308. It inhabits beautiful old
and new buildings in the town, houses one
of the oldest libraries in the world (the
Joanine) and is in the top echelon of
global universities along with Oxford and
Harvard.
 One of the University Squares |
 Symmetry in Tile (tiles like these adorn walls all over Portugal - more evidence of Moorish influence) |
 The Organ Loft in the São Miguel Chapel |
PORTO
Once in Porto we
embarked on our River boat, the Viking
Hemming. Captain Carolina then took us for
a short night cruise to the mouth of the
river Douro and back to our mooring. Porto
is a spectacular city by night or day and
we would like to spend more time there.
 Approaching The Ponto Luis I |
 The Quays are Lined with Cafes and Shops |
 Another in a Series of Magnificent Bridges Over the Douro in Porto |
 The Gaia Cable Car |
 On the Luis I Bridge, 146 feet above the Douro CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 View of Porto and the Douro from the Bridge |
 High Above the Town |
 Port Boats in Dock. Every company (Taylor's, Sandeman, etc.) has one of these little show boats. |
 A Charming City Bustling with Outdoor Life |
 The Altar and Choir of the Cathedral |
 Ornately Tiled Interior of the Rail Station |
 Porto Waterfront CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
In the higher gorge, nature returns. Sparse vegetation struggles on the dry earth. There are few houses. Only the little railway continues to snake alongside the river as evidence of civilization. Vultures and eagles swoop overhead. Wildcats, roe deer and wild boar roam the land, apparently, but all we saw were a few griffin vultures and some goats.
In stark contrast to all this man-made and natural beauty are the giant modern works that form the five locks and dams that allow navigation. They appear as huge concrete monoliths in the distance, morphing into flood gates and giant lock entrances as we approach. The locks are truly gigantic, the largest I have ever seen. They have lifts of 46/115/84/109 and 72 feet respectively. A large lock for Basil the King would have a lift of 14 feet by comparison! The view from the top of one of these locks to the river far below is a sight to behold. A variety of huge guillotine, radial and mitre gates control the entrances to these edifices. Some of the guillotine gates descend into the lock to open, a technique I have not seen before. All the locks are 12 metres (46 feet) wide and about 300 feet long. Hemming was built to fit with about a foot to spare each side. Captain Carolina nudged all but one. I can relate.
Portugal is a relatively poor country, so how did it afford these giant works and the blasting of a channel through solid rock that enabled navigation? Just for the benefit of a few tourists? There is no commercial traffic to speak of, and only 12 large Riverboats like ours ply the Douro. It must have cost billions of euros. I was unable to find a complete answer but the dams generate a lot of hydro electricity and the European Union paid for most of the construction, I understand. The hydro plants generate about 3,300 Gigawatts per year. Portugal generates 80% of its power with renewable energy, a staggering achievement compared to other developed economies. On hot sunny days the figure is 100%.
There were several discussions with our guides about Brexit and their feeling about the European Union. On the plus side, the EU has brought enormous advantages in terms of infrastructure which was very evident in the quality of roads, railways and bridges - far superior to those in the UK or USA. On the other hand they resent how little power they have in governing the Union, and the petty regulations that emanate from Brussels. In years of plenty, Portuguese farmers have been forced to burn crops and destroy tons of tomatoes so as not to exceed EU quotas. The Portuguese are generally very pro-British. In 1373 England and Portugal signed the Anglo-Portuguese Alliance, the oldest alliance in the world still in force. So they have some sympathy with the Brexit conundrum. Anti EU politics exist in Portugal, but not as strongly as in the UK.
Well, after promising to keep the verbiage in check I have succumbed to a bout of verbal diarrhea, so forthwith back to the photos:
 The Douro Flanked by Vineyards |
 Castelo Rodrigo (see below) |
 See below (not enlargeable). |
We visited
Castelo Rodrigo (above and top center), an
ancient medieval fortress city which now
has few permanent inhabitants. Plenty of
tourists, though! Synagogue Street (top
right) marks the location of an old Jewish
Synagogue where Jews were forced to
convert to "New Christians" during the
Inquisition. The Portuguese Inquisition
was relatively benign compared with the
Spanish version, however, and the Jews
retained a lot of their customs and
religious rites in spite of the name
change. Their heirs are now accepted as
Jews and are welcomed in Israel.
A little railway line accompanies the river all the way from Porto to the last lock at Pocino. It used to go all the way to Salamanca in Spain where it connected to the main line to Paris. Alas, the Spanish section was closed in the 1980s, leaving several small towns on both sides of the border with no rail service and derelict stations. The plaque on the left commemorates the station at Barca D'Alva but I couldn't find the station. The track is still in good condition and there are plans to restore it and promote the line as a tourist attraction. Meanwhile, a rickety diesel service plies the single track from Porto to Pocino every couple of hours.
The line is a small miracle of railroad engineering. It clings to the edge of the river, crossing tributaries on beautiful bridges and viaducts and plunging into short tunnels here and there. I don't know if it was ever featured on "Great Railway Journeys of the World" but it should have been. It is another way to see the beauty of the 'River of Gold' at a fraction of the cost of a river cruise. We resolved to come back and do so one day, preferably before the line is 'tweeified' for tourists.
On September 15th we took a day
tour from Barca D'Alva where the boat was
moored to Salamanca in Spain. The scenery
changed radically as we crossed the
border. The farms and vineyards were
replaced by wild scrublands. This area of
Spain is a National Park and so is
relatively wild. We saw intermittent
glimpses of the disused railway on the
way. Salamanca is a UNESCO world heritage
site, and deservedly so. Beautiful
medieval buildings line quaint narrow
streets. We visited the cathedral, filled
with yet more priceless treasures.
Sickening for a church that supposedly
serves some of the world's poorest people.
Salamanca is not just for tourists, there is a thriving local economy and culture. Filigree silver jewelry, earthenware and wickerwork are crafted using old-fashioned methods. Very thinly sliced cured ham (jamon) is a local delicacy. There are hundreds of varieties and we tried some at lunch.
 Moored at Barca D'Alva |
 Quinta (Estate) |
 Typical View from Our Cabin |
 Giant Sandeman CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Alongside Viking Torgil at Pinhao |
 Rainbow |
 Approaching a Lock |
 Squeeze In! |
 Inside a Cavernous Douro Lock |
 Pinhao Rail Station (On the Douro Line, see below) |
 Station Tile Murals Tell the Story of Pinhao |
 View from the Top of a Lock |
A little railway line accompanies the river all the way from Porto to the last lock at Pocino. It used to go all the way to Salamanca in Spain where it connected to the main line to Paris. Alas, the Spanish section was closed in the 1980s, leaving several small towns on both sides of the border with no rail service and derelict stations. The plaque on the left commemorates the station at Barca D'Alva but I couldn't find the station. The track is still in good condition and there are plans to restore it and promote the line as a tourist attraction. Meanwhile, a rickety diesel service plies the single track from Porto to Pocino every couple of hours.
The line is a small miracle of railroad engineering. It clings to the edge of the river, crossing tributaries on beautiful bridges and viaducts and plunging into short tunnels here and there. I don't know if it was ever featured on "Great Railway Journeys of the World" but it should have been. It is another way to see the beauty of the 'River of Gold' at a fraction of the cost of a river cruise. We resolved to come back and do so one day, preferably before the line is 'tweeified' for tourists.
 |
 < The Douro Line > |
 |
Salamanca is not just for tourists, there is a thriving local economy and culture. Filigree silver jewelry, earthenware and wickerwork are crafted using old-fashioned methods. Very thinly sliced cured ham (jamon) is a local delicacy. There are hundreds of varieties and we tried some at lunch.
 Salamanca Cathedral |
 Transept Roof |
 Intricate Wooden Carvings in the Choir Stalls |
 The Altar |
 Street Scene CLICK any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Cristina, Our Guide, with Flamenco Guitarist |
 One of Many Jamon Stalls in the Market |
 Fish Stall |
 Octopus, Anyone? |
At Barca
D'Alva, the Hemming turned
around and hared back to Porto,
stopping only at Pinhao for one night.
We had a chance to visit the
wheelhouse and talk to Captain
Carolina about the ship. Some people
were surprised, not by the fact that
she's a woman but because she is so
young. For my geeky readers, click
here for a description of the
propulsion system. There are two of
these Z-Drives on the stern and one on
the bow.
 Captain Carolina at the Helm ('scuse the window reflection) |
 Last Night in the Lounge |
 Approaching the Last Lock CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
Sadly,
our cruise was over but a few of
us (8 actually) booked a land
excursion to the pilgrimage
destination of Santiago, Spain. We
said goodbye to our shipmates,
some of whom had become friends
already, and disembarked on Sunday
morning, Sept 18th.
On the coach journey to Santiago de Compostela we stopped in the Portuguese town of Braga and visited the Sanctuary Bom Jesus, a pilgrimage site dating from 1373. An impressive staircase descends a steep hill from the Sanctuary. It is lined with chapels and statues depicting Christian events and people. For those not up to the climb, the staircase is flanked by a water operated funicular - supposedly the only one still in operation. I remember riding on one in Folkestone when I was a kid but I don't know if it's still there.
Santiago de Compostela
is the capital of Galicia, a
region of northern Spain. Pilgrims
have flocked here since the 9th
Century to kneel at the tomb of
Saint James. Pilgrims
traditionally travel on foot on
the Way of Saint James (Camino de
Santiago) which is actually many
alternative ways of 100 miles or
longer. Pilgrims come by the
hundreds in all shapes, sizes and
ages. We could have sat in the
main square for hours and watched
them flock in. Because of them
(and us tourists) there is a
thriving social scene in the town.
The cathedral, where lies St.
James, is ornate even by Catholic
standards. The town is a maze of
little cobbled streets, churches,
cafes, shops and shrines. We did
our own walking tour. We stayed in
the 'NH Collection' hotel on the
University campus, a modern and
rather austere hotel presumably
aimed at the well-heeled Pilgrim.
On the coach journey to Santiago de Compostela we stopped in the Portuguese town of Braga and visited the Sanctuary Bom Jesus, a pilgrimage site dating from 1373. An impressive staircase descends a steep hill from the Sanctuary. It is lined with chapels and statues depicting Christian events and people. For those not up to the climb, the staircase is flanked by a water operated funicular - supposedly the only one still in operation. I remember riding on one in Folkestone when I was a kid but I don't know if it's still there.
 From the Coach We Saw Occasional Views of Atlantic Harbours and Bays |
 View of Braga from the Sanctuary |
 Impreesive Staircase of Statuary |
 The Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE (except scale) ...And
then we traveled on to SANTIAGO
|
 Braga Street Scene  Park Dedicated to Saint Barbara I (SBII was with me, of course) Old Avery
Scale >
in the Sanctuary (not enlargeable) |
 |
 Santiago Street |
 Another Band of Happy, Tired Pilgrims |
 'Ground Zero' for Pilgrims The End of the Camino de Santiago CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE |
 Detail of the Ornate Cathedral In the foreground is the huge thurible, or incense burner, which swings across the nave on a rope. |
 Pilgrim's Rest.A Thriving Cafe in Town |
 Santiago by Night |
And
so our travels, and this
journal, come to an end.
"Thank God", I hear you moan.
We are now (Sept 29th) on the
marina, packing our bags and
winterizing Basil for
our departure on Sunday,
October 2nd. The
nights are drawing in and a
cold wind whips through the
shrouds (or would, if we had
any). Barbara
is glad and I am sad, but all
good things must end. Here
are a few parting pics:
 In Willington We Found Another Basil Boat And, finally, as Rick has said "no Roger Blog is complete without a swan photo", here are TWO of them (below and right).  Swan Family Outside Nadee |
 Beautifully Turned Out Working Narrowboats, also moored at Willington  Black Swan in Santiago (Could this be the one that left Mercia?) |
 Heron Fishing Next to Basil yesterday (He/she caught two, but you will have to wait for the forthcoming video to see the action.) |