May 28th, 2016

Map of French Polynesia Blue dots indicate stops CLICK to ENLARGE

This is an account of an 18-day cruise aboard MS Insignia, one of Oceania's smaller ships carrying 680 passengers and over 400 crew. It is a segment of a 180-day round-the-world cruise and over 200 passengers are on that long cruise from Miami to Miami. I boarded in Papeete, Tahiti and will disembark in Los Angeles, a distance of 5,640 nautical miles (6,491 miles). We will stop in Huahine, Rangiroa and Nuku Hiva, all in French Polynesia. Then a long sea voyage to Hawaii with stops in Hilo, Honolulu (Oahu), Lahaina (Maui) and Nawilili (Kauai). Finally, another 5 days at sea to arrive in Los Angeles. Barb did not want to come as "all those days at sea would drive me crazy" and it is too close to when we go to England. The first part of the journey from Phoenix to LA was nightmarish. I was crammed into a small commuter jet with about 100 others. The overhead lockers were so small I had to check my carry-on and then wait a half hour in LA to retrieve it. Then I had to ask the way to the International Terminal as there were no signs. There were supposed to be shuttle buses but two passed the stop without stopping and so a few of us set off walking through a labyrinth of tunnels and terminals to eventually emerge sweaty and enraged at the cavernous Bradley International Terminal. Once at the Tahiti Nui desk I upgraded to Business Class. Expensive, but I was worn out and it was less than half the cost of Oceania's upgrade package. So the 8 hour trip to Tahiti was very pleasant with flight attendants bedecked with flowers addressing us all by name. The food was copious and French and a cut above BA in that respect. The Tahiti airport was a mess. The baggage hall was being rebuilt and was handling two simultaneous Airbus A340 arrivals. Incoming passengers were fighting exiting passengers with loaded carts in the same narrow entrance. Humungous wait for customs then I was out into the humid tropical night. At this point I could have got a taxi to the ship but I had paid Oceania for transfers so I waited another hour for other people to arrive before we were herded on to a bus.

Once aboard Insignia, however, things improved radically. After check-in I was greeted by Tricia, a cheery fellow Brit from Newcastle who guided me to my cabin, or 'stateroom' in the overblown Oceania vernacular. Tiny but perfect. A veranda overlooking the bow where I stood, Leonardo Di Caprio style, as we departed Tahiti at midnight. I collapsed into bed and was instantly rocked asleep by the gentle Pacific swell.

The Cabin (or Stateroom)

Perfectly Appointed Library

The Pool Deck

Next day, May 29th, our first stop is Huahine, another of the Society Islands dubbed Hermosa by Captain Cook, a picturesque volcanic outcrop revered for its unspoilt solitude by modern travelers. I am too tired to do much here (3 hours sleep) but I went ashore and walked along the beach for a mile or so.

Huahine Post Office	Huahine B&B	Huahine Marae Click here for description
Tender from Huahine CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE	?? Bloom	Huahine Islet Leaving Huahine at Sunset

May 30th. Overnight to Rangiroa. This is a beautiful but ephemeral island which is difficult to describe or photograph. A low-lying ring of coral and rock atolls encircles a huge blue lagoon. The lagoon is 27 miles wide at its widest so it disappears over the horizon when viewed from one side. There are a few hamlets linked by causeways bridging the atolls. We squeezed through a narrow gap just wide enough for Insignia (see photo, top of page) and anchored in the relative calm of the lagoon. I went ashore and rented a fixed-wheel bike with a basket on the front. It reminded me of my Mum's old bike. I wobbled off down the road and forgot to back-pedal to brake, so my first stop was a little ungainly. I soon got used to it and the cycling was easy as the highest 'hill' is 3 feet above high tide. I stopped at one nice beach but was seen off by the manager of the posh hotel to which it belonged. Finally, I found a nice little beach on the lagoon and prepared to go snorkeling. It was then, to my horror, I discovered that I had no money. I had put my remaining $35 in a plastic bag and stuffed it into my swim shorts after paying for the bike. It must have fallen out along the road. Luckily I had left my credit cards on the ship and the ship boarding card was safe in the other pocket.

I paddled about in the surf and launched myself into the lagoon. The water was unexpectedly rough and I swallowed a pint or so of water while adjusting my snorkel. No sign of any fish, so I soon gave up. A sign that fish are smarter than humans. Later, back on the boat, I found out that there was a great snorkel beach right where I rented the bike. People spotted rainbows of tropical fish and two sharks there. Oh well c'est la vie, I enjoyed the bike ride anyway.

Rangiroa Hotel

The Beach with No Fish

Bar Sign

May 31st - June 1st. After Rangiroa we had a day at sea en route to Nuku Hiva. Oceania is known for the quality of onboard cuisine and I must say it does live up to the hype. The Grand Dining Room has open seating every day (show up any time, though you may have to share a table) and rivals a good French restaurant. Jacques Pepin is the Executive Chef for the line. There are two specialty restaurants (reservations required but no extra charge); Polo Grill and Toscana, where I had the best Gnocchi I have ever had. The little dumplings were coated in a delicious cream sauce infused with herbs. This was accompanied by a Caesar salad made properly with shaved Parmesan, a very light dressing and anchovies. A bread basket with six types of bread, a roasted garlic head and a choice of numerous olive oils and vinegars made to order for dipping. Delicioso! Even the simple things are done well. The Waves Grill poolside serves up an amazingly good barbecued salmon burger which is 100% salmon with a few herbs added. Then there is the Terrace Cafe which is a served buffet offering indoor or open air seating on the stern.

The ship is like a throwback to the gilded age of ocean liners, all teak decks and railings, opulent lounges in mahogany and brass and artwork everywhere. It never feels crowded except, maybe, on the pool deck before lunch. One of my favorite places is the lifeboat deck where I sit in a lounger watching the waves go past or reading a book.

Nuku Hiva Map (red dot is Insignia anchorage)

On June 1st we arrive in Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands. Robert Louis Stevenson and Herman Melville both visited and Melville wrote several books here. The weather is hot and sticky, in the mid 80s (30C) but feeling like 95 (35C) because of the humidity. We anchor in the bay off Taiohae (red dot on map, left), the administrative capital of the island and are greeted by a boisterous group of drummers and chanting Polynesian dancing ladies. I walked the whole town and visited the church of Notre Dame. Here are two steeples, the only remains of the old church, and a beautiful new church built of local timber in the Polynesian style. Even inside, the statues of Jesus, Mary and the Saints have a Polynesian aura about them. A case of Catholics appropriating the local culture. After that, I went to look at the real thing - old crumbling statuary of Polynesian tribal gods in an anthropological park overlooking the ocean. It was a glimpse of Nuku Hiva's past before Captain Cook and other explorers changed everything for ever. As I lay on a towel contemplating the old Gods a young, half-naked native boy rode past on a handsome galloping stallion. He was going so fast I had no time to turn on my camera. In the local fish market our kitchen crew were loading big crates of fish (looked like tuna) to take back to Insignia for dinner next day, while I shopped for curios and browsed around the dock area before returning to the ship.

Chickens and Dogs Roam Free

The Old Church Ruins	Modern, Airy New Church of Notre Dame	Interior Artifacts
The Anthropological Park Shop	Statue in the Park CLICK on ANY IMAGE to ENLARGE	View from the Dock Leaving Nuku Hiva

June 2nd - 5th At Sea. Now we are at sea for four days and I am able to relax and write this journal. Today (June 4th) I spent hours on the lifeboat deck with a fine cooling mist of sea spray enveloping me like a shawl. Eventually I had to leave for fear I'd be encrusted with salt like the rim of a margarita glass. The hours pass slowly but I find it very relaxing. There is nothing out there across the endless azure seas to the pencil line of the horizon. No other boats, no land, no planes for days and days. It really feels like we are in the middle of nowhere, lost in time and space in the vast ocean. We saw a few dolphins as we left Nuku Hiva and there have been a few schools of flying fish leaping across our bows. The occasional Frigate bird soars high above us but apart from that, sheer nothingness.

Yesterday was the ridiculous crossing of the line ceremony, much sanitized and dumbed down for the tourists. I was looking forward to being tarred and feathered and thrown overboard on a line to be towed along in the wash, like in the old days. Instead, the pollywogs (those who had never crossed the equator) had to kiss a fish and have King Neptune's acolyte throw a ladle of water over their heads or down their trunks. Very tame.

String Quartet at Afternoon Tea	Violinist	Tea Trolley
Jolly Roger	Frigate Bird CLICK on any IMAGE to ENLARGE	Lifeboat Deck
Kissing the Fish at the Neptune (Crossing the Line) Ceremony	Dancing at the Neptune Ceremony	My Certificate