Breakfast Club
An Affiliate of the Arizona Pilots Assn
The Knife &
Fork
Breakfast Club Tours Monument Valley, Stays at Gouldings Lodge
12 Sept 09
by Warren McIlvoy
The Breakfast
Club event to Monument Valley was very special as we were
able to get an in-depth view of the native Americans that call this magical
place, "home". We have been here before, twice for breakfast only and one
other time in the late 90's when we did an over-night visit.
The following story is more of a recount of the events and thoughts along
the way. Trying to describe this amazing location would be sorely inadequate
as the photos that are at the end of the story will do a much better job.
The inbound leg to Monument Valley was the first time that I got to
use our new PCAS (portable collision avoidance system). I spotted
traffic off to my left that was picked-up on the device which is what it
is supposed to do. Another occasion was just south of Kyenta where
Bob Jackson caught up to me in his AeroStar. While descending from
15,500', he could not find me but the PCAS had him high and to my
right and about 1.5-miles away. I did not see him but when the distance
began to increase, it told me that he was now putting some distance between
us.
The last time that we were here, the runway still only had about 1,000' of
paving at the south end with the balance of the first 3,000' being hard packed
dirt. Now, the whole runway has been paved and looked really odd. The story
that I had learned some years ago was that Gouldings had been trying
to negotiate with the tribe to pave that portion of the runway that was on
tribal land. But, alas, red tape and a general malaise on the part of the
tribe, made it virtually impossible to get anything done towards paving the
runway. But suddenly, the sponsors of the Red Bull air races took
interest in using that facility for a racing event and with the promise of
big money rolling into the tribal coffers, the runway got paved in no time
flat. It is funny how a little bit of "green"
can turn a lot of dusty gray into a black runway. Gouldings now pays a yearly
"rent" to the tribe of about $30-40,000 a year to lease the land that has
the first 3,000' of runway.
Gouldings Lodge had a van stationed at the airstrip to pick-up the
arriving Breakfast Club folks and take
them to the Lodge office where we could stow our gear until our rooms were
ready. The first thing that you will notice about the Gouldings Lodge
is that it is constructed on the slope at the base of a 1,500' monolith.
As such, everything from the office is all uphill. The Stage Coach Restaurant
just happens to be on the third level so before you can indulge in the morning
repast, you will get a good workout. Even entering the restaurant involves
ascending two flights of stairs. I had my first exposure to Indian Fry
Bread. Not bad but I don't believe that I would want a steady diet of
it as it is huge in empty calories and then add a little honey to it for additional
flavoring.
Our tour vehicle was a 4-wheel drive flat-bed truck with two rows of seats
with a center aisle. The back of the truck had a canvas roof over open sides
that provided mostly an unobstructed view and plenty of access to the red
dust that covers everything. We made a short pit stop at a facility that
shared the same property of the new View Hotel that is built right
on a small bluff that overlooks scenic Monument Valley to the east.
There was still some construction work underway but I believe that the hotel
was open for business.
As you would expect of this rustic area, the roads were all dirt and sand
that twisted both sideways and, occasionally, up and down at the same time.
And, of course, there was the red dust.
We traveled to many of the familiar sites that we did some 10-years or so
ago as well as some new places that were totally unfamiliar. We also met
Susie Yazzi whos "office" and work place was a traditional Navajo
hogan. Susie is said to be somewhere between 96 and 103 years old but at
that age, a few years makes little difference. She demonstrated how she
carded the raw wool and spun it into yarn that she used to weave the beautiful
Navajo rugs that she had on display.
At a few of the viewing stops, there was the mandatory gift shops and I just
had to browse a bit to see if there was a little something that my wife might
enjoy. At one stop, I found a pretty turquoise necklace at a very reasonable
price. It was also said to ward off the evil spirits but had little effect
on the ever present red dust.
It did not take long to understand why John Ford found this place
a veritable "gold mine" of western scenery for many of his western movies.
John Wayne made a number of movies here and his ghost may
still haunt some of the formations. It was some time in the 1930's that
a trader named Goulding approached Ford and suggested that visit this place
to see if it might provided a beautiful backdrop from his western movies.
The rest is history.
Upon our return to Gouldings Lodge, we secured our room "key" and
retrieved our gear from the office storage and headed to our room. It was
sure nice to be situated just across from the indoor swimming pool and on
the same level as the lodge office. Upon entering our room, my wife Jeri
had to test the bed for comfort while I turned-on the air-conditioner. She
opted to extend her testing period while stripped off my touring duds to
don my swim suit and try-out the indoor pool. I made a half feeble attempt
to rid myself of that red dust that filtered into every orifice of ones body.
I can truly understand why many of the native Americans were often called
"red men".
The pool was cool and very refreshing although it took some getting used
to. After about 15-minutes of soaking and, hopefully, shedding most of the
ever present red dust, it was time to go outside and claim one of the reclining
lounge chairs to soak-up some rays. Jeri soon found an adjoining chair as
well as another couple from our group. After getting a sufficient dose of
the sun, it was time to head back to our room and check-out that bed for
a short nap.
A quick shower was needed to finish ridding myself of that red coloring from
the folds of my ears to the nose hairs that did not appear to be mine (that
red color you know). Following a short nap, I decided to do a little exploring
of the gift shop that was up the hill (what a surprise) on the next level.
Ronnie Baird, the Gouldings General Manager, told me that he would be in
that weekend and, since I had not ever met him but had spoken with him on
many occasions over the last 10-years, I thought that I might inquire if
he was in his office. I asked one of the sales clerks if Ronnie was in and
she promptly called his office on her phone. She said Ronnie was in and
that I could use the stairs that were in one corner of the gift shop to access
the 2nd level.
The building that houses the gift shop (upper level), also houses the management
side of the lodging business. From the lower level, the building is three
stories with the management side using the second level. I am not sure what
is occupying the first or lowest level but I suspect that it might have something
to do with housekeeping.
A short walk through darkened offices got me to Ronnie's office where I met
an unassuming gentleman that I had spoken with many times but never had the
pleasure to meet. We relived some old times and soon got onto the topic
of the new runway (discussed earlier). I had mentioned to Ronnie that I
don't believe that I had even seen so many private cars on the dusty trails
of the Valley. He said that it is not uncommon now-a-days for folks to use
rental vehicles to ply the, often primitive road conditions rather than wrecking
their own cars. I informed Ronnie how much our group was enjoying the lodgings
and was about to leave when he handed me a copy of a souvenir book with many
photos and stories about Monument Valley.
The original Gouldings Trading Post still stands today but is now
a museum housing many hundreds of photos and relics of the past. Harry
Goulding and his wife "Mike" arrived in the valley in 1924
with nothing more than a tent, to establish his trading business with the
local Indians. The two story structure with their private living quarters
on the second floor, was the first permanent trading post in the area. The
Gouldings were always renowned for their integrity, honesty, and genuine
concern for the Indian welfare and were instrumental in establishing a modern
hospital for the residents, as well as developing a fresh water source for
all to use. However, the Gouldings are best remembered for developing
Monument Valley as a motion picture film set which provided much needed
income and assistance for the Navajos' survival. It was on one of the
walls of the museum that I noticed a photo of a much younger Susie Yazzi.
I don't remember the date exactly but I believe that it was from some time
in the 60's.
It was during our dinner hour while everyone partaking in conversations about
the days experiences during the tour, that I just happened to look up past
Austin Erwin who was sitting in front of me, that I noticed one of
those Kodak moments. The large monolith formation that is viewable from
the lodge, was painted in a deep vibrant red caused by the setting sun.
I motioned for all to get a glimpse of a site that you get to enjoy only
in magazines. Austin was the only person who happened to have his camera
with him so he went out to the stair landing and captured some shots that
accompany this story.
Sunday morning was a "get-a-way" breakfast at the Stagecoach Restaurant
and after enjoying some morning nourishment, it was back to our rooms to
finish packing and moving our gear to the lodge office where the van would
take us back to the airport. They have added one very important facility
at the airport that was sorely missed in the past, a restroom facility.
When everyone was ready, we pulled all of the aircraft from the gravel parking
area, onto the runway and turned slightly to avoid throwing debris on the
aircraft behind you. After getting started, we formed a sort of conga line
to the paved ramp area for the runups. The lead aircraft lined-up on the
runway and off they would go with the next aircraft getting in line behind
the departing aircraft.
The Breakfast Club has now visited several
of the attractions that are located on Navajo tribal land. It has
been my experience that the Navajos are a very friendly people steeped in
tradition. Most all of the guides are older generation Navajos that are
fluent in the Navajo language as are most of their children. The sad part
is that many of the newer generation has either grown-up off the reservations
or moved away and much of the language and traditions are being lost to time.
I feel that it would be a loss to our Nation as well as our heritage if
these people do not strive to maintain these traditions as well as their
native language. Visiting both Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly
should be on everyones "bucket list".
The Monument Valley Campers
- Warren & Jeri-Ann McIlvoy in 93MB, BC-1
& 1.5
- Glen & Judy Yoder in 31TC, BC-997
- Larry & Sandy Jensen in 146J, BC-65
- Austin Erwin and Rich Kupiec in 6693M, BC-86
& BC-47
- Vic Hannig and Nancy Rogers in 34086, BC-177
- Bob Jackson and Beth, Mason, and Grant Lively
in 702RJ
- Richard Spiegel, Nancy and Vera Shore, in
901KA, BC-3
What's Next?
The October Breakfast Club event will
see us returning for an encore visit to historic Kingman, Arizona,
and airport restaurant. We will also be taking a tour of some of the adjoining
facilities around the airport hosted by the local EAA Chapter. In
November, we will be heading west to an old favorite, Borrego Springs,
California, but to a new location there. The Borrego Springs Resort
will be our target for the morning breakfast. That's all for now but remember,
fly safe.
To view photos of this event, click on Monument
Valley photos.