No. 1 MkI/3
Copyright (C) 1994 by Ben Sansing
compiled by <ben.sansing@chaos.lrk.ar.us> with lotsa help
Created: 02 Mar 93
Last Revised: 23 Jun 94
This FAQ, in its entirety, is available from xxxxxxxxxxxxxx or by calling (direct) Courts of Chaos BBS at (501) 982-0059 [HST 28.8 or V32bis 14.4] and downloading ENFAQ-A2.LZH
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Part One: General Info and Wisdom
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Contents, Table of, MkI
Part One: General Info and Wisdom (ENFAQ-01.MSG)
- Thumbnail History of the Lee-Enfield
- General Specifications of the Lee-Enfield
- Basic Disassembly/Reassembly
- How to Tell a No1 MkIII from a No4 on Sight (no pun intended)
- Makers, Markings, Models
- Production Figures
- Common Imports - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
- Answers to Frequently Asked Questions: Lee-Enfield and .303 ctge.
* Are these rifles any good?
* I have heard the Enfield design is very poor. Is this true?
* What about the P-14 Enfield?
* Oh, the P-14's got its own FAQ? (14FAQ-xx.MSG, coming soon...)
* Which Lee-Enfield is best?
* What makes the No4 superior?
* What's this about a "quick headspace remedy" thing?
* Are Enfield sights adjustable?
* What's this about micrometer-adjustable sights?
* What other advantages does the No4 offer?
* What about the No5 Jungle Carbine?
* What's the difference between a No4 MkI and a No4 MkII?
* Is it worthwhile to pay a premium for a MkII?
* What about barrels? I heard those 2-groove barrels are no good.
* What condition are these Enfields in?
* What kind of prices are they going for?
* What about the .303 cartridge?
* How powerful is it?
* How much does it kick?
* Is surplus ammo all corrosive?
* Will corrosive ammo hurt my rifle?
* How do I clean a rifle after firing corrosive ammo?
* What is mercuric ammo?
* Berdan?
* Is .303 ammo in current production anywhere, or am i stuck with surplus stuff?
* How about reloading?
* Doesn't the rear-locking action cause cases to stretch?
* Oversized chambers?
* Is .303 any good for hunting?
* What's the maximum range of the cartridge?
* Can I shoot .303 Savage in the Lee-Enfield?
* What about accessories for the Enfield?
* What kinds of bayonets are available?
* How about slings?
* What other accessories would be useful?
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THUMBNAIL HISTORY OF THE LEE-ENFIELD
This rifle has a long and colorful history in British service. The "Lee" in its name is for James Paris Lee, a Scottish-born American who patented the basic design of this action in 1879. "Enfield" derives from the Royal Small Arms Factory at Enfield Lock in England, where for many years most military development work was done on arms later adopted by Great Britain.
Briefly, Lee submitted his design in the English 1887 rifle trials, where it performed best and was accepted. Enfield made some modifications, resulting in the Lee-Metford Magazine Rifle Mark I of 1888. This rifle used Metford's segmental, shallow-land rifling, and was designed for the original .303 British loading, which used a compressed charge of black powder. With the introduction of Cordite (a smokeless powder, see section on .303 British ctge. for more info) a few years later, the Metford barrels soon proved impractical, for the highly corrosive Cordite destroyed their shallow grooves in short order. Enfield rifling - actually another Metford design, but very similar to today's standard rifling - offered much deeper, somewhat wider, lands to the hot powder gases, and barrel life was considerably extended. Various improvements and modifications followed, leading to the first true Lee-Enfield, which was introduced in 1895.
This was followed by other changes, modifications and mark designations every few years or so until the Mark III was adopted in 1906, as the Short magazine Lee Enfield (SMLE) No1 MkIII.
The No1 MkIII rifle weighs about 8.9 lbs., has a 25.2" barrel and is 44.8" over-all. It has a full-length fore-end and the rear sight is mounted on the barrel.
The No4 MkI rifle weighs about 8.6 lbs., has a 25.2" barrel and is 44.4" over-all. Its fore-end extends nearly to the muzzle, and the rear sight is mounted on the receiver bridge. It was adopted in 1941.
The No5 MkI "Jungle Carbine" weighs about 7.2 lbs., has a 20.5" barrel, and is 39.1" over-all. It has a short, sporter-type fore-end, a funnel-like flash hider on the muzzle, and a modified buttstock with a somewhat dubious "recoil pad", but is otherwise identical to the No4 rifle. It was introduced in 1941.
All Lee-Enfields were discontinued in 1954.
In England, Canada, and Australia, the Lee-Enfield has long been popular for hunting and competitive target shooting. In recent years, some Lee-Enfield No4s have been converted (successfully!) to 7.62 NATO (.308 Winchester). In fact, for a time Britain issued these converted No4s as sniper rifles! The typical conversion consists of rebarrelling, replacing (or modifying) the magazine, extractor, ejector, and clip-slot adaptor. These rifles occasionally appear in Shotgun News (in the classified ads), and normally sell for $600 or more, as they are scarce in this country. The British consider this a safe conversion, and it probably is, but since the original .303 British cartridge is not that far, ballistically, behind a .308, there seems little point in going to all the trouble. If you want a .308, you're probably much better off starting with some rifle other than a Lee-Enfield!
NOTE: Recently, Navy Arms has been offering these .308 Lee-Enfields, in "target" configuration", for as low as $299 (wholesale).
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GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE LEE-ENFIELD TYPE: Turnbolt repeater
RECEIVER: One-piece machined steel forging with slotted main bridge. The forward part of the main bridge is built over to form a narrow bridge for the clip-charger guide.
BOLT: Two-piece, with separate non-rotating bolt head. Dual-opposed locking lugs on the rear of the bolt.
IGNITION: One-piece firing pin powered by a coil mainspring. Cocks on closing bolt.
MAGAZINE: Detachable, staggered-column, 10-round box.
TRIGGER: Non-adjustable double-stage military type pull.
SAFETY: Lever type at left rear of receiver, locks striker and bolt when swung back. Striker can also be placed in "half-cock" of "safe" position manually. (There is no good reason for the half-cock, but the British soldiery felt the rifle was unsafe without it. The "feature" was discontinued for a time, then brought back after vehement protest by the rank and file!).
EXTRACTOR: Non-rotating hook type positioned in bolt head; separate spring.
MAGAZINE CUTOFF: Cutoff provided on No1 MkIII, none on MkIII*, No4 or No5.
BOLT STOP: No separate bolt stop; extractor housing on bolt head acts as bolt stop.
EJECTOR: Stud screw threaded into left receiver wall.
STOCK FASTENING: Buttstock attached to receiver by a through-bolt.
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DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
Field Stripping is quite simple with any of these rifles, and is all the "take-down" you will normally need for cleaning and maintenance. This procedure involves removing the magazine and the bolt from the receiver, and is accomplished thusly:
I> Make certain the rifle is unloaded.
II> Remove magazine by lifting up magazine latch in the trigger guard and pull magazine out of the action.
III> Remove bolt:
A> from SMLE No1 MkIII:
1> raise bolt handle and pull bolt back as far as it will go
2> rotate bolt head by lifting up on the extractor lug
3> bolt can now be pulled from action
B> from early No4 (MkI)
1> tip up rear sight
2> depress bolt head release (located behind rear receiver bridge on right side of action)
3> while holding down release, open bolt as far as it will go
4> rotate bolt head counterclockwise and pull bolt from receiver
C> from late No4 (MkI*, Mk 1/2, Mk 1/3, MkII)
1> open bolt and pull it back about 1/2", or until bolt head matches "notch" in right side of receiver
2> rotate bolt head out of its groove and pull bolt from receiver
Reassemble in reverse order.
To remove the buttstock, on any Lee-Enfield:
1> open buttplate trap
2> remove felt wad that covers stock bolt head (if present)
3> use a large, long-bladed screwdriver to unscrew stock bolt
To remove the barrelled action from the forestock & handguards:
1> Remove triggerguard/magazine plate
a> remove front and rear triggerguard screwsv b> lift triggerguard/magazine plate out of fore-end
2> Remove muzzle cap & barrel bands (yes, the bands "spring" out over the wood. Be gentle, but slight bending won't damage them).
3> Gently pull forend away from barrel and action.
To replace bolt head on No4 or No5 (to adjust headspace):
1> Unscrew bolt head
2> From detached bolt head:
a> remove extractor screw
b> pull out extractor (spring)
3> Reinstall extractor (spring) & its screw in replacement bolt head
4> Screw new bolt head back onto bolt body
Congratulations! You just used a $10 part to cure an "excess headspace" problem which, on a Mauser or Springfield, would have required expensive "rebarrelling" or "barrel setback" at the friendly gunsmith's (to the tune of $100+). This is a major feature of the No4 which makes it more desireable as a shooter!
This is probably all you need to know for practical purposes. For instructions on Detail Stripping, "Sporterizing", complex descriptions of design, and other intricate matters, consult the Bibliography.
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HOW TO TELL A No1 MK3 FROM A No4 ON SIGHT
In unaltered military configuration, the No1 MkIII series rifles have an open rear sight, midway along the barrel. The No4 rifles have a receiver sight built into the rear receiver bridge. There are other differences - some of them MAJOR - but simply noting the location of the rear sight is the easiest, most instant way to tell one from the other.
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MARKINGS, MAKERS, MODELS
SMLE No.1 MkIII and III*
British proofs stamped on breech end of barrel, receiver ring, bolt head, bolt body.
Serial number stamped on barrel breech, receiver, stem of bolt handle.
Other markings usually stamped on right side of butt socket, including a proof mark, manufacturer, date and model designation as follows, top to bottom:
Crown with letters G.R. (for George Rex) on top.
Name or initials of manufacturer (one of the following):
ENFIELD (Royal Small Arms Factory at Enfield Lock, Middlesex, England)
B.S.A.Co. (Birmingham Small Arms Co., Birmingham, England)
L.S.A.Co. (London Small Arms Co., of London)
ISHAPORE (Ishapore Arsenal, India)
LITHGOW (Lithgow Arsenal, Australia)
The date (year) of manufacture.
Model designation, as follows:
ShtL.E.
III (or III*)
The meanings of the model designations are as follows:
Mk III (WW1 production, w/magazine cutoff and metal disks inset in fore-end to accept the long-range "volley" sight)
Mk III* (wartime modification to speed production, eliminating magazine cutoff and "volley" sight disk)
The letters ShtL.E. mean "Short Lee-Enfield" (but are sometimes pronounced "Shittley" by those who don't like the rifle!).
The abbreviation SMLE (Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield) is also used to describe these rifles. It is sometimes pronounced "Smellie", by fans and detractors alike! By the way, some folks claim "Short, Magazine" means it has a trimmer, slimmer magazine box than previous Enfields, but this is not so. The "Short" means the rifle is shorter in length than previous issues. The "Magazine" merely indicates, in British Armororese, that it HAS one.
In Britain, the No1 Mk III was discontinued in favor of the No4 in the late 1930s, but LITHGOW Arsenal in Australia continued to manufacture this rifle on through the end of WW2. One possible explanation for this is that by the time the No4 became standardized, the Japanese were occupying most of the South Pacific, and there was no way to ship the tooling and specifications for the No4 to Australia. Another possible reason is that the Aussies were happy with the No1 MkIII and saw no good reason to convert to the newer rifle. If someone can provide documented reasons for the Aussies' retention of the No1 MkIII, I'll happily add it to this document.
LEE-ENFIELD No4
Adopted in about 1940, most of the No4 rifles were made under difficult wartime conditions in England, the US, and Canada. The marking systems used on these rifles were many and varied, and far too complex to be described in full detail here (see Bibliography). Most No4s were proof-marked, serial numbered, and dated, generally marked with the model designation and the name and/or place of manufacture. Proof marks were usually stamped on the barrel breech, receiver ring, bolt head and bolt body. Serial number and date (year) of manufacture were usually stamped on the left side of the butt socket, though sometimes these will be on the left side of the receiver instead. Or both. Or neither. Depends on the arsenal, the year, and who was running the stamping machine that day. Really...
The model designation was usually stamped on the left side of the receiver, as follows:
No4 MkI (original No4 pattern)
No4 MkI* (modification w/simplified bolt removal)
No4 Mk 1/2 (cvted to Mk2: trigger pivoted in bracket brazed to butt socket)
No4 Mk 1/3 (cvted to Mk2: trigger pivoted directly to butt socket)
No4 MkII (trigger pivoted directly to butt socket, not a conversion)
If there is a (T) after the Mark designation this indicates a sniper rifle.
The No.5 carbines are marked "No.5" followed by the Mark designation.
Three firms in England made the No4 rifles. Each firm was assigned blocks of serial numbers so that no two rifles would have the same number. The number is stamped (or sometimes etched!) on the left side of the butt socket.
Manufacturers markings are as follows:
FY or ROF(F) = Royal Ordnance Factory in Fazakerly, Lancashire
M or RM or ROF(M) = Royal Orndance Factory at maltby, Yorkshire
B or 85B or M 47 = BSA-controlled company in Shirley, near Birmingham
The word ENGLAND is often stamped on the receiver ring of these rifles.
No5 Jungle carbines were manufactured at Fazakerly exclusively. Beware of fakes!
Additionally, No4 MkI* rifles were made in Canada and the US. The Canadian rifles, made at Long Branch Arsenal near Toronto, Ontario, were marked LONGBRANCH on the left side of the receiver. Rifles made in the US by Savage Arms Co., (in the former J. Stevens Arms Co., plant in Chicopee Falls, MA) were stamped U.S. PROPERTY on the left side of the receiver, to satisfy bureaucratic necessity under the Lend-Lease arrangement with England).
Sometimes a No4 will be found with overstamped markings, including the cryptic letters "FTR". This indicates the rifle has undergone a "Factory Through Repair", a complete Arsenal overhaul and reconditioning. Most "FTR"s were done after World War Two, and the rifles will be stamped (or over-stamped) with post-war dates. All such work was done at Fazakerly Arsenal, and included the following procedures: All rifles upgraded to MkII status (usually as MkI/2 or MkI/3), adjustable rear sights installed, rifles with less than 85% blue (black) refinished, wood replaced if necessary, barrels gauged and replaced if necessary. For collectors, these "FTR"d rifles (with a few exceptions) are not highly desired, due to the unavoidable mixing/restamping of parts, but from a shooter's point of view, these "FTR" rifles are exceptional values. Most bores will be *mint*, headspace will be within spec, and fitting of parts will be first-rate. If you are shopping for a good shooting Enfield, look for an "FTR"d rifle!
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PRODUCTION FIGURES
These are hard to estimate for the Lee-Enfield, but here are some rough figures, for some of the makers:
SMLE No1 MkIII - Enfield Lock: 2,000,000+ (1914 to 1918 alone)
- BSA: 10,000/wk during WW1
- Lithgow: 640,000+
No4 MkI,I*,etc - BSA: 1,250,000
Long Branch: 1,000,000+ (including 1000 sniper rifles)
Savage: 1,000,000+
Estimated total production, SMLE & No4, from all makers: 10,000,000+!
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COMMON IMPORTS - THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE UGLY
In the 1950s and 60s, before the 1968 Gun Control Act, hundreds of thousands of Lee-Enfields were imported as surplus and sold to American sportsmen and collectors. The supply dried up after the import restrictions of GCA '68, but then in 1986, with the passage of the Gun Owners' Protection Act and its omnibus attachments, import restrictions were relaxed and the floodgates opened again! Almost overnight, the "good old days" of cheap military rifles had returned. Prevelent among these new imports were Lee-Enfields of several types, and now it's rare to turn a page in Shotgun News without seeing at least one variation of Enfield being offered at a "giveaway" price, often with accessories and/or ammo, by a major importer or distributor. The questions naturally arise -
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ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS...
ARE THESE RIFLES ANY GOOD?
Most of them, yes. In good (or better) condition, these are rugged, reliable, and (reasonably) accurate rifles which will serve you well for years to come.
I HAVE HEARD THE ENFIELD DESIGN IS VERY POOR. IS THIS TRUE?
Opinions vary, but the general consensus among rifle experts and military folk is that the Lee-Enfield is one of the better turnbolt rifles FOR MILITARY PURPOSES. Military criteria differs somewhat from sporting rifle criteria, and the lee-Enfield lacks some of the "aesthetic" features which the sporting folk cherish.
SUCH AS?
Some people don't like the rear-locking action, claiming it is "inferior" to the Mauser-style front-locking action, but this is mostly a matter of personal opinion. Certainly, it is strong enough for the .303 (and even the .308, as recent British match rifle conversions have shown), and very smooth in operation, and has proven extremely reliable over the years.
Likewise, some folks think the "cock-on-closing" feature is inferior to the M98 Mauser's "cock-on-opening" design. This, too, is a matter of personal opinion. The M98 needs extra force to lift the bolt handle, as it is cocking the action at the same time. The Enfield's bolt comes up smartly - another aid to its speed of operation. Some folks are disturbed by the extra force needed to ram the bolt home and close it, for it is cocking the striker at this time, but once you get used to it, it's not at all awkward. It all boils down to what you get used to.
The two-stage military trigger is often criticized (for sporting use) - but this is a feature of virtually all military rifles, not just the Enfields. Many of these two-stage triggers - on Mausers and whatnot - ARE quite awful, but most Lee-Enfields have a rather nice, even crisp second-stage pull. You'll soon get used to "taking up the slack" with the first stage, knowing the second stage will be short, sweet, and to-the-point.
The protruding 10-round magazine box is also considered aesthetically abominable by "sportsmen" - though, naturally, it was a major asset to the military. The rifle balances ahead of the box, so it doesn't interfere with carrying... and you have ten shots on tap, and can reload either with single rounds or stripper clips (through the top of the action) or with spare magazines, just like a modern semi-auto battle rifle. Most plinkers and practical outdoorsmen don't mind the 10-shot magazine at all.
WHAT ABOUT THE P-14 ENFIELD?
Nice rifle. Modified Mauser action. Not covered in this FAQ though, since it's not a *Lee* Enfield. I had to draw the line somewhere, and sticking to the British Lee design seemed prudent. Otherwise, if I covered the P-14, I'd almost have to cover its variant, the M1917 .30-06, and that would lead us into the Springfield M1903, and the .30-06 cartridge, and other stuff of that nature. So, the P-14 will be covered in a separate FAQ.
OH, THE P-14'S GOT ITS OWN FAQ?
Right. 14FAQ, coming Real Soon Now to a net server near you (but don't hold your breath).
OKAY, THEN WHICH *LEE* ENFIELD IS BEST?
The No4s are probably better values than the No1 MkIIIs, where actual shooting and continued use is concerned.
Note: That's what I opined in '93. Since then, I've acquired a No1 MkIII* (made at Enfield in 1918), and I must confess, I like it just a bit *better* than the No4s. Balance is superb for offhand shooting, chamber is *not* oversized, headspace is fine, and accuracy is definitely superior to the "average" No4, and on par with my Blessed Longbranch No4 (the standard by which all others are judged).
WHAT MAKES THE No4 SUPERIOR?
Most (if not all) of the SMLEs (No1 MkIIIs) being imported these days are Australian LITHGOW-made rifles. In a way, this is good. These rifles were mostly built during WW2, so they have the advantage of better steel, and fewer years of wear. On the other hand, The Aussies used the HELL out of them. Even the "reconditioned" ones are often in less than terrific condition. Also, the No1 MkIII action is somewhat more complicated, and less rugged (and weaker) than the No4, in general. There is also the possible "excessive headspace" problem, which I'll cover later on.
Note: Generally, the headspace "problem" has been over-emphasized.
The No4 action was an improvement in many, many ways over the No1 MkIII.
Efficiency of manufacture was only one benefit of the new design. The bridge was made higher, the thumb slot (for clip loading) in the left receiver wall was made shallower, thus strengthening the action. The bolt head was altered, both for ease of manufacture and to facilitate the "quick headspace remedy" (which I'll get to - be patient!). The gas-escape system was improved, to better protect the shooter from hot gas in the event of a failed cartridge case head or pierced primer. The sights were improved 100% - from the old "open rear sight on the barrel" to a thoroughly modern, *MICROMETER-ADJUSTABLE* receiver sight on the rear of the action. Are these "bargains" any good? Are they ALL good, or just some of them? Which ones? What do I need to look for in selecting a decent Enfield?
Note: The No4's rear sight is adjustable for elevation only. Windage is a matter of applying Mister Brass Punch and his associate, Mister Hammer, to the front sight in a brusque and imprecise fashion. Yes, that's right - with typical British brilliance - the sublime elevation adjustments are combined with ridiculous crudity in windage whacking. Not to worry... once windage is on, it's *on*, at least for practical sporting use.
WHAT'S THIS ABOUT A "QUICK HEADSPACE REMEDY" THING?
Headspace is the term for the space between the face of the bolt and the barrel face, or the rear of the chamber. Proper headspace allows the cartridge to chamber properly and be held in place by the bolt face. Cartridges are said to "headspace" on the case mouth, the shoulder, the belt, or the case rim, depending on their design, but the relationship of the bolt face to the cartridge base plays a large part in it, too. If there is too much room between the base of the cartridge and the bolt face, the cartridge has a tendency to "set back" against the bolt face upon ignition, which may cause a portion of the case to be unsupported by the chamber walls, resulting in a ruptured cartridge, or in lesser cases the primer may back out of the case. Either condition is unpleasant, as hot gas comes pouring out of the ruptured case &/or primer pocket, and will catch you square in the face if not diverted (thus demonstrating the importance of well-designed gas escape channels in a rifle's action!), and in extreme cases may even cause the stock to shatter and/or the receiver walls to be "sprung" and the action ruined (Heck, with really horrible excess headspace, the rifle may even blow up, but this is rare).
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Note: This whole section is overdone. I have learned much since I wrote it. To reassure the readership, here's a couple of points:
1> Primers will almost invariably "back out" a little upon firing of a new commercial factory round in a No4. This is due to the case "fire-forming" to fit the oversized chamber. It is NOT an indication of excess headspace. Sometimes it will do it in a No1 as well - the No1s don't have *grossly* oversized chambers, but they *are* a bit generous, so again a minor primer back-out is nothing serious.
2> The Lee-Enfield action (the No4 at least) handles escaping gas superbly. Last year I got a bad lot of .303 ammo and fired it (not knowing it had pressure problems) in my Blessed Longbranch No4.
After shooting 15 rounds or so, I happened to notice that one of the fired cases had a hole in the primer. Yep - fifteen blown primers, hot gas coursing back through the action each time, and yet the action diverted the gas so well I didn't even NOTICE. So - if you fire an Enfield that *does* have excess headspace, not much is (probably) going to happen, except your fired cases will either have primers backed WAY out, or (in extreme cases) you'll get a rupture around the case head, but in either case, the action (No4, at least) can handle it without undue weirdness. Note that all disclaimers apply, and with any "suspect" rifle you want to check, firing it remotely via a string and so forth is a very good idea...
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This "excessive headspace" condition is possible in all rifles, and when found is usually due to either an improperly installed or poorly chambered barrel (Spanish Mausers are infamous in this regard) or just the wear and tear of many years of rough use, as in most older military rifles.
The cure, in most cases, is complicated and expensive. Rebarrelling can cure it, or redoing the original barrel by removing it, turning a "little bit" off the back, and reinstalling it (perhaps along with rechambering to compensate) in a "cut and try" process. The machine work and labor alone might well cost over $100 (though if you have a friend with a lathe, a vise, a wrench, a micrometer, and lots of free time...). With some rifles (03 Springfields, or M98 Mausers being rebuilt into custom sporters), this involved process might be worthwhile, but on a $49 bargain plinker? No way, Jose'! Better to just hang it on the wall or make a lamp out of it, and cut your losses.
Many of the currently-imported military rifles, including about half of the Lee-Enfields floating around (pot luck!), will exhibit an excess headspace condition. With a No1 MkIII, you are SOL. With a No4, though, you are looking at the purchase of a $10 part, and about five minutes of labor to remedy the condition and put the rifle in first-rate shooting condition.
The Brits put a lot of "smarts" into the No4's design. Among other things, they introduced a new headspacing system. It was simple, made possible by the two-piece bolt with separate bolt head. It consisted of making a set of four bolt heads of different, specified lengths, and making them available to armorors in the field. These bolt heads were numbered from '0' to '3'. #0 was the shortest, #1 was .003" longer than #0, #2 and #3 were each .003" longer than the next lower number. During factory assembly, a bolt head was fitted which gave normal headspace of .064" to .074" (minimum and maximum allowable headspace). If, after much use, headspace increaded, a new, longer bolt head could be installed to correct for it.
Bolt heads on the No4 are marked with the qualifying number on the extractor lug. Most imported No4s I've seen have the #0 or #1 bolt head installed. All four lengths of bolt head are availabel from SPRINGFIELD SPORTERS, and cost around $10 each. You got excess headspace on a No4? Get on the phone, order the part, and FIX it yourself - then act smug when your buddies come whining about how their "vastly superior" M98 Mauser surplus rifle keeps blowing primers. Har har. Rule Brittania!
ARE ENFIELD SIGHTS ADJUSTABLE?
Yes.
Both the open rear sight (No1 MkIII) and micrometer receiver sight (No4) are adjustable only for elevation. On both rifles, windage is adjusted by tapping the dovetailed front sight from side to side. The front sight is protected by two enormous metal "ears", which prevent it from being knocked askew accidentally. The more exposed, and thus vulnerable, rear sight was spared the extra adjustments that would have been required for windage, and everybody was happy, for in military use, the front sight would be zeroed ONCE, for the service load, and the backsight elevated as needed.
Note: Early No1 MkIIIs and MkIII*s have a windage knob on the rear sight. My 1918 MkIII* does, and it's very convenient! These sights are probably available from parts dealers, and it would behoove the owner of a later MkIII* (Lithgow) to "upgrade" the rear sight.
Both models of Lee-Enfields incorporate a similar, and interchangeable, front sight. Seven different heights were provided, allowing initial elevation as well as windage adjustment to be performed using the front sight and the "battle sight" setting of the rear sight. Once this combination was sighted in, the elevation adjustments of the rear sight were correct for their specified (marked on the sight) ranges with service ammo. These seven heights of front sight are available from Springfield Sporters, if you want to resight your rifle for a particular load - or you can just adjust the windage and use the backsight to adjust elevation.
WHAT'S THIS ABOUT MICROMETER-ADJUSTABLE SIGHTS?
Another of the *MAJOR* innovations in the No4 over its predecessors was in the matter of sights. Previous Enfields had employed the traditional open rear sight with tangental elevator, mated with a "barleycorn" front sight. Crude, but typical of the vast majority of bolt action military rifles in the arsenals of the world's armies. Adequate for "volley fire", where massed ranks of infantry fired on command against massed ranks of enemy troops doing the same thing a few hundred yards distant, but lousy for precision shots at selected targets, such as often occurred in WW1 and became SOP during WW2.
Note: In actual practice, I find the sights on my No1 MkIII* easier to adjust and use than those of the No4s. In fact, I must confess I generally just use the "battle sight" on the Blessed Longbranch, out to 350 yards or so (the maximum length of our rifle range), while I *do* adjust the rear elevator of the MkIII* according to the range. "Crudity" was over-emphasized. The MkIII*'s sights are very, very good!
Back in WW1, the P14 "Enfield" had been equipped with a receiver sight, and this had given a good account of itself. Efforts were made to adapt a similar sight to the Lee-Enfield, and the Brits came up with a doozy. Built onto the rear receiver bridge, the new rear sight offered both a fixed "battle sight" (almost a "ghost ring", with an enormous aperture) and a flip-up sight, adjustable in micrometer "clicks" just like the finest target sights. Impressive? Yes. Accurate? Yes. Reliable? Yes.
Note: Elevation-only? Yes!
A few of the late-issue, British-made No4s were equipped with only a crude, two-position "L"-shaped rear sight, which offered two elevations of battle sight set for different ranges. Your mail-order Enfield may arrive with this setup, but don't sweat it. The micrometer sights are widely available, from Springfield Sporters and elsewhere, for about $10 to $15, and they are "drop-in" replacements to the "L"-sight.
WHAT OTHER ADVANTAGES DOES THE No4 OFFER?
No4s weigh a bit less than the SMLE, most people consider No4s less "clunky", they are more likely to be found with decent (even *mint*) bores than the LITHGOW No1s, and less likely to be "beat all to shit", as noted.
Note: But the MkIII has (for me, at least) vastly superior balance.
WHAT ABOUT THE No5 JUNGLE CARBINE?
They are comparatively scarce, and seldom advertised. Usually even "average" No5s sell for over $200. They are very lightweight and "sportier" looking, but they will kick you out from under your hat! In all other respects, they are just like No4s. If you find a nice one at a bargain price, go for it.
Note that several companies are offering "conversion kits" to make a No4 into a "replica" No5. These are fine for making handy utility rifles, but don't get suckered into paying collector prices for a No5 that is really just a converted No4! A real No5 will be stamped No5, with markings indicating manufacture at Fazakerly (ROF-F) in England.
WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A No4 MKI AND A No4 MKII?
The MkII offers a minor improvement over the MkI, in that the trigger is pinned to the receiver instead of to the triggerguard. In actual use, there's not much difference between the two. MkIIs usually have a bit less "slack" in the first stage of the trigger pull than MkIs. The second stage pull will be about the same in either Mark.
Many of the rifles advertised as "MkIIs" are actually MkIs which were upgraded after WW2 by the British. These rifles will be overstamped with the designation Mk 1/2 or Mk 1/3, indicating a conversion. Functionally, they are identical to MkIIs.
IS IT WORTHWHILE TO PAY A PREMIUM FOR A MKII?
Not in my opinion. Both rifles work equally well. My personal No4 is a MkI*, made at LONGBRANCH in 1942, and I'm entirely satisfied with it. I'd probably be equally happy with a MkII.
WHAT ABOUT BARRELS? I HEARD THOSE 2-GROOVE BARRELS ARE NO GOOD.
Lee-Enfield barrels have a left-hand rifling twist of one turn in 10 inches; bore (land) diameter is .303"; groove diameter is about .314". Most barrels have 5 grooves, although some late-manufactured No4 rifles may have 2-groove barrels. The No4 rifles made by Savage usually have 6-groove barrels. They all seem to shoot pretty good. Some people have even claimed that the 2-groove barrels shoot BETTER than the others, but I cannot confirm this. Many 03A3 Springfields had 2-groove barrels, and were very accurate. I'd advise you not to worry about how many grooves the barrel has. If the bore is bright and the rifling is sharp, expect good accuracy. If the bore is dark and pitted, it's time to start gathering hardware for that floor lamp you always wanted.
WHAT CONDITION ARE THESE ENFIELDS IN?
Conditions run the gamut, from "mint" to "beat to shit". Most of the No4s are pretty decent. Most of the No1 MkIIIs are not.
Your best bet, in buying any surplus rifle, is to avoid a "pig in a poke". Go to a gun show, or a dealer, where you can examine the rifles and make a selection based on something more than the hype in a Shotgun News ad.
WHAT KIND OF PRICES ARE THEY GOING FOR?
That depends a lot on model, condition, quantities on hand at the individual distributor's warehouse, and how badly they want to get rid of them. Here's an informal survey, based on prices found in the SHOTGUN NEWS of March 1, 1993:
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CENTURY INTERNATIONAL ARMS, INC.
Lee-Enfield No1 MkIII (LITHGOW), condition "good": $69.95
12 or more (each): $49.50, plus 600 rounds of FREE ammo
Lee-Enfield No4 MkI (England, Canada), condition "good": $59.87
[You play "pot luck" with makers - you might get anything]
Lee-Enfield No4 MkII (UK-made), condition "Good to Very Good": $89.87
["UK-made" may be misleading. Rifles converted from MkI to MkII (Mk 1/2 & Mk 1/3) might have been made anywhere, but the conversions were all done in England and the rifles overstamped]
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J&G SALES
No4 MkI Enfield, made in USA by Savage, "about good*": $62.50
"good": $79.50
"good/very good": $89.50
"select": $109.50
No4 MkI Enfield, made in Canada (LONGBRANCH), "about good": $49.95
"good": $58.50
"good/very good": $78.50
"select": $89.00
J&G is playing the "brand loyalty" game, pricing Savage-made rifles higher than their Canadian cousins. Bear in mind, both Savage and LongBranch made over 1,000,000 No4s each, and almost all of the current imports have been back through one of the British Arsenals, restamped, parts mixed... they have *NO* real collector value - but if you want to pay $12-20 extra just to get a gun stamped "US Property", they'll happily let you do so.
* "about good" = "beat to shit" (aka "lampstand special")
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RON SHIRK'S SHOOTERS SUPPLIES
British Enfield No4, NRA Very Good to Excellent w/excellent bores: $72.95
Spike bayonet, $3.95, Blade bayonet $4.95
Australian Lee-Enfield Rifle No1 MkIII
1A - Good condition, 60-70% Finish, Bores - slight wear, no rust, no pitting. $49.95, 5 or more $47.95
2A - VG-Excellent Condition, 75-85% Finish, Excellent bore. SPECIAL $64.95, 5 or more $59.95
3A - Like New, 90% Finish, Bores Like New, Little Use $199.95
4A - New, 100% Finish, Perfect Bores, Slight Marks on Wood. $274.95, Extra magazines $9.95
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SOUTHERN OHIO GUN (SOG) INTERNATIONAL, INC.
Enfield Rifles!!
Australian Lithgow No1 MkIII .303 Cal.
Now selling at the lowest price ever!
Only $49.95 each. Add $10 for hand-picked.
Bayonet and scabbard ONLY $18.95 each.
Enfield No4 MkI .303 Cal.
Solid reliable rifles!
Good to very good condition
Only $59.95 ea. Add $10 for hand-picked.
Bayonet and scabbard ONLY $6.95 each.
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KIMEL INDUSTRIES
Enfield No1 MkIII .303 Cal. rifles, $58.95
Enfield No4 .303 Cal. rifles, $79.95
select grade with free bayonet
Standard grade w/ bayonet, $54.95
Standard grade w/o bayonet, $49.95
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Begin to get the picture? Everybody and his dog is selling Enfields, prices vary a little, but not much, and on the whole it is VERY difficult to determine just what you're getting until it arrives.
What is "select grade"? This might very well mean they "select" one at random out of a big bin. How about "hand-picked"? This could mean somebody did "eenie-meanie-miney-moe" with their HAND in front of the big bin. "NRA" grades are standardized to a degree, but there is a lenient degree of interpretation. Still, I'd trust "NRA" grades nefore I'd trust someone's homegrown grading system, like "peachy" or "swell" (Yes, I've seen this done) or... whatever.
I recommend (and will probably do so several times throughout this document) that you browse at a gun show or a gun shop, where you can examine your prosepective purchase before laying out $$$. You may pay a little more (or you may not!) but at least you won't be playing "lampstand roulette".
------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHAT ABOUT THE .303 CARTRIDGE?
Well, what about it?
HOW POWERFUL IS IT?
The standard .303 British military ball loading (as adopted in 1910) used a 174-gr. pointed FMJ bullet at a muzzle velocity of 2440 fps. This works out to 2300 ft/lbs of muzzle energy. Sporting ammunition tends to be somewhat more powerful.
The cartridge is in the same power range as .300 Savage or .30-40 Krag, and only about 100-150 ft/lbs behind .308 Winchester in the same bullet weights.
HOW MUCH DOES IT KICK?
Calculating the free recoil energy (relatively meaningless, except in arbitrary comparison to other guns & loads), the military ball loading, fired in an 8.6 lb. SMLE generates 8.2 ft/lbs. recoil. In a 7.2 lb. No5 Jungle Carbine, it generates 9.8 ft/lbs.
Felt recoil varies from shooter to shooter. I find most loads (including the military stuff) to be very mild out of my (nearly) 9 lb. No4. Your mileage may vary.
IS SURPLUS AMMO ALL CORROSIVE?
Mostly. That's why it's so cheap. Some of it is also in rather poor condition, especially the "British issue, 1940s" stuff. We're talking "genuine relic of WW2" here, and probably been around the world several times, donated to a third world country, swapped to another third world country, stored in a humid warehouse, and finally bought by some enterprising importer for a song. Expect occasional misfires and hangfires, even with the best-quality surplus stuff.
WILL CORROSIVE AMMO HURT MY RIFLE?
Generally no, providing you clean it thoroughly as soon as possible after firing. Ammunition loaded with Cordite (as all British surplus stuff, and most other surplus stuff, is) burns very HOT, and in time will erode your barrel all by itself. Cleaning can't do diddly about Cordite erosion.
HOW DO I CLEAN A RIFLE AFTER FIRING CORROSIVE AMMO?
Corrosive ammo deposits salts in the bore, which attract moisture, which generates rust. Water neutralizes the salts, thus water is a key ingredient in proper cleaning.
There are two main methods of cleaning. Both work. I use No2, mostly.
1> The "old-fashioned way"
a> With the bolt removed (of course), stick the rifle's muzzle in a bucket of hot, soapy water
b> pump a tight-fitting patch up and down the bore a few dozen times.
c> then run some dry patches through the bore
d> after its thoroughly dry, run an oiled patch down the bore (if desired)
2> The "new-fashioned" way
a> With the bolt removed, run a wet (does not have to be hot) patch down the bore
b> run a dry patch down the bore
c> run a patch soaked in Hoppe's #9 or a similar solvent down the bore
d> run a brass brush through the bore 10-15 times
e> repeat step "c" and "d"
f> repeat step "c"
g> rest the rifle, muzzle down on newspaper, until the next day
h> repeat steps "c" thru "g"
i> repeat steps "c" thru "f"
j> run dry patches through the bore until it is dry
k> oil the bore (if desired)
WHAT IS MERCURIC AMMO?
Ammunition which uses mercuric priming compounds. These are somewhat cheaper than the lead styphnate compounds used in modern ammunition, hence is still being used for military ammo. These Mercuric compounds will not hurt the rifle in any way. You don't even have to take pains cleaning the gun after shooting mercuric ammo. BUT, Mercuric compounds WILL attack the brass ctge. case, making it brittle and thus DANGEROUS to reload.
Not to worry. Most mercuric primed ammo is also Berdan-primed. You can't easily reload that stuff anyway.
BERDAN?
Oy, how we travel far afield in search of definitive Enfield answers!
If you look inside a fired ctge. case, and it has one central flash hole in the bottom, it's a Boxer-primed case. The primer's anvil is part of the primer cup in these, and the ctge. can be reloaded on standard American loading tools using standard components. If there are two or more offset flash holes, the case is Berdan-primed. The anvil is part of the case. It's a bitch to reload, and in a calibre like .303, for which Boxer-primed brass is plentiful and cheap, don't bother!
IS .303 AMMO IN CURRENT PRODUCTION ANYWHERE, OR AM I STUCK WITH SURPLUS STUFF?
The .303 British is nowhere near extinct. Remington, Winchester, Federal, Hansen (yuck!), Norma, and (probably) PMC all offer loads for it. Most common is the 180-gr. soft-point bullet at 2460 fps (muzzle), giving 2418 ft/lbs. of muzzle energy. There is also a 150-gr. load, giving 2685 fps (muzzle), for 2401 ft/lbs. muzzle energy.
Remington, Winchester, and Federal ammunition is all quite excellent in this calibre, and Norma is nothing short of superb.
Hansen ammunition is of rather dubious quality, thus the "Yuck" in the above paragraph. Soft primers combined with hot loadings are not uncommon. Be thankful your Enfield handles escaping gas well, if you shoot much Hansen stuff!
HOW ABOUT RELOADING?
Winchester, Remington, and Norma all offer new, unprimed .303 British cases for the reloader.
Lee, RCBS, Lyman, and everybody else offer reloading dies.
The .303 uses standard Boxer-primed cases taking large rifle primers.
Every available loading manual (Lyman, Speer, Sierra, etc) lists a wide variety of loads for .303 British.
The recommended bullet diameter is .311-.313, and bullets designed specifically for .303 are offered by Remington, Speer, Sierra, & Hornady, at prices comparable to "regular" .308-diameter bullets. A good selection is available, ranging from 215-gr. soft points down through 180, 150, 123 (Hornday's .310-diameter bullets intended for 7.62x39mm work fine in .303 British!), and even 100-gr. if you care to shoot .312 diameter JHP pistol bullets.
In addition, any of the commercially-cast bullets designed for the .32-20 or .32 H&R Magnum may be used with reduced loads. I personally prefer about 8.5 gr. of Unique with a 113-gr. flatnose bullet. I pay $28/1000 for these little guys, and they shoot great, providing a fun, "kickless" plinking load.
DOESN'T THE REAR-LOCKING ACTION CAUSE CASES TO STRETCH?
Not necessarily. The Lee-Enfield's rear-locking action has been much-maligned over the years, yet Remington saw fit to introduce a rear-locking action (the 788, now sadly discontinued) only a few years back, and it was widely heralded for accuracy and precision. Stretched cases in the Lee-Enfield are more often due to the somewhat oversized chambers employed for military use.
OVERSIZED CHAMBERS?
The .303 British cartridge headspaces on its rim, so the shoulder dimensions can be quite sloppy without undue problems. The Lee-Enfield No1 MkIIIs tend to have "maximum" chambers, and the No4s may be even more oversized. This was an asset for reliability under adverse conditions in military service, but it *can* be a hindrance for reloaders. If you full-length resize your brass after every firing, it will wear out quickly. Full case head separations are not uncommon after as few as five loadings.
The solution is very simple. DON'T FULL-LENGTH RESIZE YOUR BRASS! If the ammo is to be shot in one rifle exclusively, just neck-size it. This is easily accomplished by "backing out" the sizing die until it contacts ONLY the neck portion of the cartridge case. The body is left alone, and remains "fire-formed" to fit your chamber, no matter HOW oversized it may be. One side benefit of neck-sizing is that cartridges no longer need to be lubricated before sizing. Make sure you have properly adjusted the sizing die to contact only the case neck before trying to size w/o lube, of course - otherwise you risk a case stuck in the die!
IS .303 ANY GOOD FOR HUNTING?
.303 British has long been a favorite of British, Canadian, and Australian hunters for game ranging from dik-dik (a tiny African antelope) up through elephant! Lee-Enfields were once distributed in great numbers to settlers in the wilder British colonies, which may have something to do with it, for truly the .303 has been Britain's answer to America's Winchester .30-30 as a utility gun. But the old .303 has also been Britain's answer to the American .30-06 as an all-around hunting rifle, and has enjoyed a tremendous following among serious hunters, for deer, bear, moose, and elk, as well as African antelope and similar critters.
In the United States, it's still quite popular, mostly in surplus rifles which arrived here in the 50s and 60s, as well as the more recent imports. Here in my home state of Arkansas, it's about the fourth or fifth most popular cartridge for deer hunting, mostly in use by serious "meat" hunters who need more power than the .30-30 allows without investing hundreds of dollars in an expensive sporter.
The .303 is an excellent round for deer and black bear, and can hold its own with any other non-magnum .30 for larger game, especially when used with 215-gr. bullets. A lot of old Canadian moose hunters swear by it!
WHAT'S THE MAXIMUM RANGE OF THE CARTRIDGE?
That depends. Fired at a high angle, the bullet will travel several miles. Maximum effective range, for military use (in machine guns or in "volley" fire) is probably about 1200 yards. Maximum practical range for target shooting is about 400-500 yards, under ideal conditions. Maximum practical range for hunting may be considered 400 yards (the 150-gr. factory load retains 1064 ft/lbs. at this distance, thus is still theoretically quite capable of killing a deer), but to claim it's a 400-yard cartridge is stretching credibility quite a bit. With the issue sights, the Lee-Enfield is a good 150-225 yard hunting rifle. You could stretch the yardage by 50-75 yards with a scope, if you're a good shot.
CAN I SHOOT .303 SAVAGE IN THE LEE-ENFIELD?
NO! .303 Savage is a much smaller cartridge, and is NOT in any way interchangeable with .303 British. Don't try it!
WHAT ABOUT ACCESSORIES FOR THE ENFIELD?
What about them?
WHAT'S AVAILABLE?
Spare parts in profusion. Bayonets. Slings. Muzzle covers. Breech (action) covers. British-issue manuals. Grenade-launching attachments (but no grenades, sorry). "Volley" sights (for WW1 SMLEs). Surplus ammunition of varying quality.
WHAT KINDS OF BAYONETS ARE AVAILABLE?
The SMLE accepts a variety of bayonets, including the popular and picturesque M1907 16" sword bayonet. All SMLE bayonets will also fit the P14 and M1917 American-made "Enfield" rifles.
The No4 accepts two bayonets.
There's a "spike" bayonet which was a real economy measure for the Brits. Just a short metal rod with a semi-sharp end. They've been offered for as low as 50 cents on the surplus market, and were once a popular item at military surplus stores, which sold them as "tent stakes".
The other No4 bayonet is a short blade with a "Bowie" hook along the backside. These are not uncommon, and normally sell for about $5 to $15.
No4 bayonets will also fit the STEN sub-machine gun.
The No5, due to its oversized flash hider, will only accept its own special bayonet. I've never seen one, nor seen any offered for sale, so you're on your own there.
HOW ABOUT SLINGS?
Original British military slings can sometimes be found.
Sometimes Enfield rifles are offered "complete with sling and bayonet". This sounds real cool, but don't be hasty to pay EXTRA for a rifle with these options. The "spike" bayonet is what is usually supplied, and often the sling is in sad, sad shape.
WHAT OTHER ACCESSORIES WOULD BE USEFUL?
British Army manuals are useful, informative, and often entertaining. A few spare parts (extractor, bolt heads, etc) are handy, but not mandatory. Other than that, it depends on what you think would be neat and fun to have.
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