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India
By John Meade
Rickshaw Rides and Revelations
On my
first day in Chennai I was driven around
with two of my friends in a rickshaw. Our driver’s name was
Madurai and he asked to be called Madu for short. I had been told
to be careful around rickshaw drivers. I had been told that they
are only out to cheat tourists and will more than likely rip you off
given the opportunity. With all that in mind, I was skeptical at
first when Madu asked to drive us around for the entire day.
There was something about this man that seemed different though.
I agreed to let him take us around the city for the day because he
appeared quite sincere.
One of the first things Madu did for us was
take us to lunch. We approached the restaurant from the back
alley, which made me nervous, but once we got inside it was a really
nice place. Madu ordered for us, acted as our translator, showed
us the proper way to combine the food, and instructed us on how to eat
with our hands. He was joking around with us the entire time and
it felt for a while that he was more than just our driver. He had
become our newfound friend in India.
Madu drove us around for the remainder of the
day while we shopped and drank tea. He turned out to be rather
helpful and we had a wonderful afternoon talking with him. When
it came time for us to return to the ship Madu drove us back. On
the drive back he asked us if we would like to join him for dinner at
his home later in the week. We said that there would be nothing
that could keep us from going. He was delighted and we said our
goodbyes.
On the last night in Chennai we met Madu
outside the port gate and he drove us to his home. He told us how
his wife was busy preparing dinner for us and that his two teenage
daughters would be returning home from school shortly. It really
goes without saying that southern India is extremely poor. We all
knew this beforehand, but nothing really prepared us for the shock of
Madu’s apartment building. To get into the neighborhood we had to
jump down from a broken section of the highway. We then walked
through a courtyard area that was littered with trash, food waste, and
human feces. We followed Madu up the stairs to his third floor
apartment. We walked in the door and were immediately welcomed by
his wife and smiling daughters and proceeded to sit down with them for
our meal.
Afterwards, I was bewildered at the entire
experience. I kept
finding myself thinking about how these people
could be so nice and happy when they lived in such horrible
conditions. Madu’s home was only a small room not even ten by ten
feet, but he and his family seemed to have nothing to complain
about. In the face of such poverty and hardship, they were some
of the happiest people I have met on this voyage. An excerpt from
one of our readings on India really rang true to me after this
experience. In her book Cinema
and the Urban Poor in South India, Sarah Dickey writes,
“…weakness and powerlessness do
not characterize most of the daily experiences and expressions of poor
residents in [southern India]. Life is not pervaded by futility
and resignation to the extent that people stop trying…” My experience
with Madu and his family is one that touched my heart and truly changed
my outlook on the poor of India.
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