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Tunnels for Tourists
by Ryan Bahry
Against the backdrop of low-lying buildings in Ho Chi Minh City,
massive surges of traffic in the streets make it nearly impossible to
traverse the downtown at dinner hour. Hundreds of Vietnamese,
operating the a sea of cyclos, swerve dangerously in and out of the
traffic flow, narrowly avoiding each other and the brave pedestrians
who venture out into the streets. At first glance, Ho Chi Minh
City seems extremely sheltered from transnational influence—a city
composed of small buildings and primitive forms of
transportation. However, having experienced Vietnam in greater
depth, particularly in the historic grounds of the Cu Chi Tunnels, has
allowed me to witness the various contrasts between the transnational
and vernacular.
In class, we had read Christina Schwenkel’s article
“Recombinant History: Transnational Practices of Memory and Knowledge
Production in Contemporary Vietnam.” In her article, she examines
the transnational effect that tourism has had on the portrayal of
historical sites such as the Cu Chi Tunnels. She describes how
the tunnels have been transformed into a public space where tourists
are able to come and witness the “authentic” Viet Cong
experience. I was fortunate enough to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels
during my time in Vietnam, and experienced much of what I read about in
the article. Just as described in Schwenkel’s article, a tour
guide led our group to the small, disguised opening in the ground,
demonstrated how the tiny-framed Vietnamese could easily fit through
the entrance, and then asked for tourist volunteers to attempt to
breach the opening.
The rest of the trip followed precisely as outlined
in the article, and I was actually rather disappointed by how insincere
the experience felt. However, it was interesting to witness how
the Vietnamese have transformed this battlefield into a truly
transnational, tourist-focused space. There was very little
emotion left behind these sights—we were able to walk around the
grounds, see destroyed American tanks, craters in the earth left from
bombings, and witness demonstrations of the types of traps that existed
throughout the jungle with very little discomfort, considering we were
walking on the grounds of one of the most tragic, controversial
conflicts of all time. Instead, we were able to purchase snacks,
fire guns on a firing range, and think little of the actual events that
took place there.
I’m left wondering several questions after leaving
the Cu Chi Tunnels in Vietnam. In Schwenkel’s article, she
describes an alternate spot where the Cu Chi Tunnels are more of a
commercialized Disneyworld-esque location. At this site, it is
more common for the Vietnamese to tour the tunnels. I would be
interested to learn more of the differences that exist between the two
sites, since the more “authentic” version that I visited felt extremely
commercialized, like an amusement park. It would be interesting
to observe the site where Vietnamese tourists are drawn and how it
contrasts with the more transnational space that exists for those of us
from outside the country to come and enjoy our afternoon of pleasant
makeovers on the sites of unfathomable horror.
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