TABLE
OF CONTENTS
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Minarets and Mobile Phones
by
Ryan Bahry
When I imagined visiting Istanbul, I had
pictured a
city full of various Arabian imagery, a stereotypical notion of a land
still frozen in the traditions of the caliphs, the sultans, the
enigmatic veiled women. As soon as I walked through the port
terminal out into the city, I experienced a landscape that could have
passed as scenery from any U.S. city—green space, parks along the
water, a modern train whirring by every few seconds, streets lined with
men and women in coats and jackets instead of donning a fez. It
immediately became clear that the city of Istanbul has become extremely
modernized, and the European feel to the city was undeniable.
In Caglar Keyder’s “The Housing Market from Informal
to Global,” he discusses the utilization of space in Istanbul and the
development of housing throughout different time periods in the city’s
history. He discusses the transnational flow of capital and ideas
into Turkey and the resulting impact on development that resulted
during the 1980’s. Although I wasn’t able to visit any of the
gated communities that Keyder mentions, I was able to visit some
islands just outside of the city that serve as resort islands during
the summer months. As it was winter, the islands were much
quieter, and the people that I encountered there were local to the
islands. Passing through the small, self-contained island, I
noticed beautiful homes, nice schools where the children played in
uniforms, and upon talking with some high school students, I realized
that they were listening to Pink Floyd on an iPod nano. The
residents of this island were clearly much more affluent that many
Istanbul residents, and the imagery was stunning to see these Turkish
children on this reclusive island utilizing American electronics and
listening to American music.
Perhaps the most stunning comparison of
transnational and vernacular that I have witnessed on this voyage came
from examining the Istanbul skyline. The developing, modernizing
city of Istanbul has efficient public transportation, shopping centers
and malls, yet above all of this transnational evidence of global
influence in consumerism, development, and lifestyle is the reminder of
the Istanbul of the past. Huge mosques loom above all of
Istanbul, and the skyline is dotted with these beautiful, vernacular
reminders of the fact that despite the modernization of Istanbul,
ninety-nine percent of Turks are Muslim and still practice the
faith. In no other city have I been so taken aback by the
modernization of the city (Istanbul felt much more like a European city
than a Middle Eastern urban center) contrasted with the imagery of the
vernacular (the mosques were a reminder of Turkey’s history and
culture). For me, Istanbul was the most powerful display of the
effects of transnational forces upon a city and culture and how a city
so rich in heritage and history can truly become a global space.
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