Semester at
Sea Fall
2006 Voyage 
"Goood Morning Vietnam"
By Evan Kleiman
The ship was inches above the surface of the
ocean
floor, the ocean was painted milky brown, you could taste what you
were smelling as we passed grasslands with huts, boats of all sizes and
pulled into the Ho Chi Minh port that looks like it was built in
ancient
times and hasn’t been remodeled since. It was embarrassing getting off
a ship that in many ways resembles characteristics of the transnational
world. The ship's arrival brings in such a massive cash flow that it
made the front of the newspaper. Every Vietnamese would slow down on
their motorcycles that flood the streets and look at us smiling,
greeting us and knowing exactly where we have come from. Throughout
the city there wasn’t a soul that didn’t know we were from Semester at
Sea, thus getting away from the streets of Ho Chi Minh was crucial to
truly feel like a traveler and
not a tourist. Vietnam’s geography is breathtaking, the scenery is
picturesque and the beach towns and cities along the coast up to the
northern most tip are a
must. This trip was a pivotal moment that taught me the importance of
being destination-less, which has over and over again proven to be one
of the
most rewarding parts of travel.
Within Vietnam, there were major
war
sites that now
have been turned into tourist attractions, taking the visitor on a
journey back in time through the devastation of the Vietnam
war (called the American war here). It was really
tragic to see how something as horrific as war could be turned into a
profitable means for the Vietnamese even though they're making the most
of what they have. It’s a testament to the degree to which people go
in making money. After feeling really affected by the war remnants, I
zipped by a graffitied wall holding for dear life onto the back of a
Vietnamese
motorcycle. In the corner of my eye I glimpsed the graffiti
that said, “Vietnam is not a War, It is a Country.” Seeing that gave me
hope and inspiration that people will still maintain some dignity and
sense of pride in their land, culture, individuality and will not let
the power of money and business and strongly influential transnational
impacts start to pave over the history of the land and the
vernacular culture.
Beyond the uncomfortable association of Vietnam with the war, which I personally felt in the beginning, although no Vietnamese were anything but kind, there is a land of endlessly rich discovery. Exploring through the land of Vietnam evoked sheer awe, excitement, and was visually beautiful. Beyond all of that fruitful beauty of the land the true question facing all travelers lies in the authenticity of sales in Vietnam. Everywhere I turn I am being sold one thing or the other, it never stops, and they are “professionals” at selling me all sorts of junk. Shopkeepers attempt to sell me “real” Rolex watches, “real” DVDs of movies that are not even out in the stores, and clothing brands such as Lacoste, Polo Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss ties. You name it, Vietnam has it, only for one-fiftieth of the real cost. It’s thrilling but also can be a little bit overwhelming.
In “The Limits of Authenticity in
Vietnamese
Consumer Markets,” Elizabeth Vann discusses the concept of
“authenticity” in contexts of international law and anthropological
inquiry. There are four types of goods that are discussed: model goods,
mimic goods, real goods, and fake goods. Throughout my travel
exploration in Vietnam, I was battling between the lines of what is
right and what is wrong and what is real and what is fake. The
experience allowed
me to live for real all that I read in the article.
As unethical as it
is, this
market A)
allows the
poor to make some money, and B) allows the less privileged to buy
designer
brands that otherwise can only be purchased by the elite. And most
importantly it helps clothe, nourish, and shelter many of the people
who work in the "mimic goods" industry.
When it's all said and done, for those of you world travelers out there
who have had the wonderful opportunity to visit Vietnam, “it’s the
same-same but different.”