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Riding the River

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Observations, Reflections, and Photographs by Matthew Alan Lord

Riding the River

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We began the field portion of this class in South Mountain Park, and Dr. Koptiuch has arranged for us to end it at the Salt River.  When I asked her if she had intentionally used these spatial borders of South Phoenix as temporal ones to mark the opening and conclusion of the course, she would not concede much more than a knowing smile.  There is a pleasant symmetry to this arrangement, one that facilitates reflection as we prepare to write our open letter to the community.  This illustrated essay recounts my visit to the river and assesses how the changes in it have been represented online.

The names chosen for this area (“South Phoenix” vs. “South Mountain Village”) have been a discussion thread running throughout the semester.  The river has not escaped a similar campaign.  I suspect a consultant was paid good money to determine that the mundane, long-standing “Salt River” appellation lacked a certain marketability.  Thus, a new name was needed to go along with the new image.  As with other things I have observed in South Phoenix, the result actually was another case of the old in the new.  Although the English “Salt River” marked nearly all maps of the last century, “Rio Salado” shared naming duties earlier on.  There are even a few instances of “Salinas” in the record.  But back to today: The official name for this project is the “Rio Salado Habitat Restoration Project,” (RSHRP) often shortened to “Rio Salado.”  I will stick to RSHRP when speaking about this renovation project.

When I learned we would have more time available for field work the week prior to the “officially sanctioned” visit to the river, I decided to explore it more extensively.  Another reason I chose to head out to the river this day was because I wanted to experience that place relatively unmediated by advocates and critics of the project.  In other words, I sought to encounter that place without having the writings and in-person comments of those for and against the RSHRP shaping my responses to the river.  What I have written here comes after having read all the City of Phoenix web pages and the one produced by Mr. Brittle, but before hearing from them in class.  After sharing reflections and photographs from my ride down the river, I offer a critique of their websites.

As you may have seen elsewhere on my website, I rode every Valley Metro bus route in South Phoenix for another class project.  With the extra time, I turned to another mode of transit: my bicycle.  I anticipated that riding my bike would let me cover the entire open portion of the RSHRP during the allotted class time.  A slow leak made that a bit more challenging than expected.  Every bus in Phoenix is equipped with bicycle racks, although one runs the risk the two slots will be occupied when the bus arrives.  I began my trek in the early morning light, catching the bus with bike aboard.

As of this writing (March 2006), RSHRP is open to the public but still under construction.  It’s an interesting time, because if you really squint, you can see the first manifestations of what is hoped for from this effort.  In some spots, however, a visitor would have to nearly have her eyes closed to find this place attractive.  I expect appearances will improve in places such as at the far eastern end (just past 16th Street) where construction is underway, but the place is undeniably ugly near 19th Avenue.  Pedestrians or cyclists traversing the north bank there get squeezed between chain link fences topped by barbed wire on a path sitting astride a massive levee.  For half a mile, the barren cap of an old city dump stretches to the horizon, and abandoned gravel pits and industrial uses hide behind the concrete-covered south levee.  There simply is too much to look past in order to take in the Sierra Estrellas, South Mountain Park, or the downtown skyline.  The levees here are brutally honest, not masking themselves with vegetation and setbacks simulating natural embankments as elsewhere in the RSHRP.

Such sleight-of-hand has its greatest success near the Central Avenue Gateway.  Here there is relatively abundant vegetation and the greatest intensity of amenities.  The trails wind around marshes to overlooks and weave their way past pump stations and other accoutrements while sliding down into the river channel.  The numerous spots where visitors encounter smaller artificial streams and pools of water go a long way to giving the RSHRP a human scale feeling.  Too much of it, however, leaves the visitor feeling lost in a giant industrial scar.  Folks studying urban ecosystems often use phrases like “human dominated ecosystems.”  The domination is in your face here, and the notion of an ecosystem is merely a distant strand of brush and puddles in the center channel.  Even this glimmer is absent, however, in most of the eastern reach where no water flows.  Great gulfs of barren rock seem all the more uninviting in the mid-day glare.  One feels very much the interloper, not a guest.  I will reserve judgment until completion, but I suspect far fewer guests will linger in this eastern end as around the Central Avenue hub.

I see this as a renovation and not a restoration for a couple reasons.  The most obvious are the massive levees.  Storm sewers and pumps supply what water that flows here outside those rare upstream dam releases.  Furthermore, several riparian ("of the river") ecological zones are being reintroduced in this short stretch of the river.  In its natural state, there likely would have been one with a few pockets.  The ever-present roar of jet engines is why the area nearest the airport will remain far drier and free of vegetation by design.  People feel drawn to water, perhaps more so in desert cities.  Installing a continuum of riparian zones is a creative solution, however, to concerns that birds not be attracted to the river and so become potential hazards to planes arriving and departing Sky Harbor.

These musings hopefully leave you with a sense of my encounter with the place as an individual, but hopes are high for this as a communal space.  I did encounter a few other wandering souls during my trip.  I ran into one gentleman “from the East Valley” in the Gateway parking area.  He had just stumbled across the RSHRP while killing time before an appointment.  Never having heard of it beforehand, he thought the concept sounded interesting.  A young couple came to stroll along the pond to the overlook on their lunch break.  Both from South Phoenix, they felt the RSHRP eventually would become an asset and a source of pride for the community.  Also near the Gateway but out on the trails, I ran across a preschool group from the central city on a field trip.  The adults, all women, liked having a place to go walking that was isolated from traffic.  This separation from traffic also appealed to Gilbert.  He biked the trails as part of his daily work commute.  I can only guess at how much of his flying down the path was due to the trail dropping off the levee top to go under Central Avenue and how much was the pull of his waiting paycheck. Only after leaving the RSHRP did I realize my conversations with the thirty or so construction workers were limited to both parties nodding businesslike “hellos.” Given that this ride fell mid-day on a weekday and just months after opening, I was pleasantly surprised to meet a handful of people.  This bodes well for the project.